Crazyness on the Third Flatiron

Well, if it has to be bolted, just make sure they're painted bright fluorescent orange. I can't even ever find the damn ring bolt anchors. Well, except for the ones at the top.

Phil:

The exposed runout section on the upper part of the last pitch on the Third Flatiron is part of the challenge and thrill of climbing it -- get through the "hardest" part and you are on the summit. No bolt needed here.

I usually skip all or most of the six eye bolts on the lower section; they are not in the right places for a 70M rope and in any event with a bit of creativity there are plenty of opportunities for gear.

The last time I led the third, on Sept. 21, 2008, with three followers, it rained as I started the last pitch! This added a bit of focus to my climbing. Keep your weight on your feet, stay centered, trust your feet, breathe, stay focused, and in a few moves you will be on the summit. As it is is supposed to, this works, even in the rain.

If you want to practice slab smearing on a fully bolted route, try the routes on Watermark in Boulder Canyon.

Regards,
Tom Stocker

This thread seems to be petering out, but I'll add a thought or two anyway. It is not unheard of for a climb to be retro-bolted, even without asking the first ascenionist. But it does seem to be the case that community consensus, whatever that is, should be overwhelmingly in favor of such a change to the status quo. Otherwise you get a bolt war.

Those run-out routes in Tuolomne would see a lot more traffic, if they were retro-bolted. However, the local community is not in support of that, for whatever reason. Try to add bolts there, and one would be lucky to merely have their bolts chopped. It seems to me that the local community here, while perhaps a bit more diverse than some places in terms of how many climbers there are, and opinions about bolting, is overwhelmingly against adding a bolt to the Third.
It seems that the couple of guys that are supporting such a change, are making an argument in theory, as much, if not more than really proposing adding a bolt. Having a bolt war up on the Third would really be a shame, and I would guess we can all agree to that.

I think anyone that seeks out climbing traditional routes as a safe and worry-free hobby is seriously deluding themselves.

I have no problem with adding an occasional bolt to a route, but if you can't handle 20' of 5.4 runout, you have no business climbing in the Flatirons. Sheesh!

John Maguire wrote: The ladies in sundresses probably wore leather tie up shoes and probably downclimbed the front ...Let's see how big your balls are if we take out the repel rings in the back and let you do it in true honor of the first acensionist.

John I thought you were done? Or do you just say things you don't mean?
It's very obvious you say plenty you don't understand.

Here is my personal history with the 3rd.

The first time I "climbed" it I didn't summit.
I was in my first year of climbing, it was my first ever multipitch route. My rack was 1 set of nuts, 1 set of hex's, 1 set of tricam and 10 QD's. I talked a guy from my dorm into doing it with me. He had a harness, a rope, and a belay device...no shoes or chalk. We even thought we could haul! Which ended 10 ft into the first pitch.
We left at 2PM.I lend everything. It took forever...when we got up to the gash weather and darkness where looming hard. We bailed by scrambling through the gash and doing the last 2 rappels. It was dark and we had 1 flashlight(not a headlamp). Ofcourse we had no idea where the descent was and promptly got lost in the gully between the 2nd and 3rd. It was an awesome adventure.

Here is a Point....you don't have to climb the last "dangerous" pitch...you can bail through the gash.

My second attempt. On my way back through the next year, after a fire season in Calif., I freesoloed it.

3 months later I attempted to take two friends up and bailed through the gash once again due to use all being cold.

I once climbed it at night in a snow storm for grins.

I've climbed it several times covered in snow.

I've done the climb....belayed, simul, and solo. I've linked it to several other flatirons, solo and with partners.

I've done the climb somewhere between 30 and 50 times mostly solo.
I've down climbed the face and the southwest chimney.
I've done it Car to car, unsupported in 58 mins and supported in 43mins.

I have a deep seated love for this climb. I think it's one of the best in the country, certainly at the grade...probably all around.

I don't complain about crowds on it, I understand.
I don't talk trash about people belaying on it while i solo past...I say hello and wish them well. When the rappel's are jammed up I use the alternate descent.

I love this climb for what it is and I have formed my opinion through experience. Both on the 3rd and in other aspect's of climbing.
You(John) should think about learning more before spouting off.

I said it earlier and I'll say it again. If a bolt where added to this climb...and I don't care who's "approval" it got...I would chop it.

josh

Adding bolts to parts of climbs that have a history of accidents and death is one thing. But this pitch sounds as if it has no such history. That would suggest that it is within reasonable margins of risk.

J. Thompson wrote: You(John) should think about learning more before spouting off.

He's developing a track record for displaying this attribute.

mountainproject.com/v/commu…