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Tingey's Terror descent

Original Post
Riddler · · Sammamish, WA · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 195

Does anyone know whether or not you can rap the descent for Tingey's Terror? I know the guidebook says to hike off to the Schoolroom rappels, but I could have sworn I heard that some rap stations were added off the east side. Thanks in advance.

flyk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 0

Did I run into you a few weeks ago on schoolroom? At the belay below the Movie variation?

Anyway, I've done Tingeys twice, the first time we took the schoolroom rappels and the second we attempted to stay on the east side. We didn't have good beta for the rappels to the east and it turned into a mini epic. Unless you can get precise beta, I'd walk over to schoolroom.

Riddler · · Sammamish, WA · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 195

Yep, that was me. Thanks for the info. Let me know if you ever want to go climbing in Ogden.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,822
Eric Riddle wrote:Does anyone know whether or not you can rap the descent for Tingey's Terror?

Yeah, I think Jimmy G added some anchors way up on the "Torture" version of Tingeys. I don't know where they are, though. I think the hike over to the standard Schoolroom rappel is pretty easy and fast, from either the top of Tingey's or the Torture variation.

Also, if you only go up a couple of pitches, you can rap off anchors back to the top of Tarzan (two ropes I seem to recall).

Tea · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 214

who added the bolt right next to a textbook stopper crack on the original last pitch of Tingey's Terror? so lame it defies description....

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,822
TP in SLC wrote:To find the raps JG installed you basically have to climb the Torture to the top. IF you find the bare belay hangers (2nd to last pitch no chain/tat) the raps are immediately to the east, over that steep edge, which is the Flakes.

These belay hangers? Bonair.



Didn't know that's where the rap anchor is. Thanks.

Tyler King · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 1,385

Eric,

Just did this today and happened across an anchor (for some slab climb that I can't figure out what it is). Look in the book (page 318) and see the top of tingey's (where it says <- to school room...). Directly under that belay (and maybe a bit west depending where you set up your anchor) there are some chains. One bolt has a few links that are even with the other which just has a hanger. They are painted gray. a 60m will get you down. A 70 would have at least cut out 1 rap and might have cut off more (but I'm not sure) Two ropes would have been really nice though as there are 7 (safe) raps with a 60m! It puts you right back at the beginning. Hope that helps... Better yet, let's do this early next season and I'll show you!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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