It's time for a new rope- suggestions?

KathyS wrote: I won't name the climber nor the manufacturer, since it's not my story to tell, so don't ask. Kathy

Kathy, not telling the climber I understand.

Not telling the manufacturer? That's a safety issue that all consumers should know about, right?

Doesn't a manufacturer making egregious mistakes that put the safety of their customers at risk deserve the negative attention, a la CCH, and the ensuing consumer pressure to correct the problem?

Here's my $0.02 but being a noob, TIFWIW:

For craggin' I've used a Bluewater Dominator 10.2 x 60m. So far its held up well and served me well over the last two years. I have never fallen on it but have hung on it. I've since washed it once and it looks new. Pretty happy with it.

For alpine, I just picked up an Edelwiess Performance 9.2 x 60m and I love this rope! I got it at Bent Gate. Double dry treated, skinny and only $135! So far I've used it 5 times, and its been rapped on twice, by 5 climbers, no twists, no frays etc. Its super slick and glides through ATC's etc. really well. I'm quite happy with the rope.

Not sure if this adds to anything, or helps, but thought I'd offer that up.

I have blown out a few Blue water cords in a matter of weeks. Actually one in just 8 pitches. I am not too impressed by their cords anymore. I think I just bought into the hype of everyone else's praises. I have been climbing on PMI for the last few months and so far so good. All the ropes are dry treated regardless. Double dry for the ones that may encounter wet conditions.
Seem to be very durable and handle well. Soft catches.
The 9.7 Arete by PMI is pretty good. I use it for trad and sport and it is in good shape still. Going on 3 months. So I like it.
Good Luck!

Kirk Heatwole wrote:I was sure to check the bicolor midpoint when I got the rope last night. Dead nuts in the middle; hopefully this rope lives up to its name. My last rope was an Edelweiss and the sheath is starting to fray pretty bad and the core seems solid but softer in some spots. I guess I can't complain after 2 years of pretty intense use.

A rule of thumb for retiring a rope... at least for me and some friends that have worked for rope companies.

If you take a soft spot on the rope or the area you think is suspect and bend it over creating a tight bight and cannot thread the end of the rope through it then its shot. chop it or retire it. Basically thread the needle.
. If you take a new cord and bend it. you will be able to thread the end through it very easily. most likely the hole/loop will be at least 2 times the diamter of the rope. If you cant thread it. The rope is too soft and it could be likely the sheath allowed alot of grime to seep into the core.
any who.
just some food for thought on knowing when a rope may need to see its last day soon.
I could be off by a mile or 3.

I wish I was buying a skinny rope for multipitch stuff but I'll be in Flag all winter and so a thick, durable cragging rope is going to be more my style. What are people's suggestions there?

I found it interesting that my Sterling Biathalon Pro at 10.1mm weighs in the same as a Beal Booster which is supposedly 9.7mm. Having climbed with both ropes I can almost guarantee that the Sterling will outlast the Beal, although both are great ropes.

Also worth noting that most 70m 9.5mm ropes weight more than their 60M 10mm counterpart. I was a 70m fan for a long time but now I feel they are only worth their extra weight when cragging at places like Indian Creek. Usually for multi-pitch it is just an extra 10m of rope you are taking up in slack. How often do you run pitches longer than 200 feet?

Just a few observations....good luck on your selection.