Retiring a harness after x number of falls...?

Anyone ever do this? I've never seen or heard of it but was just wondering if anyone has considered or has actually retired a harness due to it having a certain number of falls on it.

No. I always operated under the premise that with a harness, you can inspect all the elements thoroughly enough to adequately make a good assessment. Any harness I've previously owned, that is. But I can understand someone wanting to be a little over-cautious, and I wouldn't fault him for it.

Agree. I've never retired a harness for that reason.

I used to climb with a guy that loved his old Misty Mountain harness, but it was really frayed and tattered looking. So he used to tie a flat webbing "swiss seat" over the top of it so he could continue to use the harness, but he had a backup.

Now that's brand loyalty!

replace mine yearly

Hey Daryl,

It shouldn't be a problem. It looks like you weigh, what, about 14 lbs?

lol Shawn! Actually 21lbs now that i'm three! (aint i cuuuuuute?)

I'm not thinking about retiring my harness; i was just thinking. Do you all remember that real basic model black diamond harness they used in Cliffhanger when that broad fell after the buckle broke (sorry to bring up such a lame scene, everyone)? Well i paid $25 for one just like that back at the Mountain Chalet (i think that was the name) in 1990 and climbed on it for a number of years i'll not admit to here. It got me thinking though... i still have that harness but have since upgraded to a Petzl for comfort reasons. But looking at that old BD, it looks every bit as solid as the new(er) one i have now.

Darren, send me your old ones... i'll cover shipping! ;)
d

Daryl Allan wrote:lol Shawn! Actually 21lbs now that i'm three! (aint i cuuuuuute?) I'm not thinking about retiring my harness; i was just thinking. Do you all remember that real basic model black diamond harness they used in Cliffhanger when that broad fell after the buckle broke (sorry to bring up such a lame scene, everyone)? Well i paid $25 for one just like that back at the Mountain Chalet (i think that was the name) in 1990 and climbed on it for a number of years i'll not admit to here. It got me thinking though... i still have that harness but have since upgraded to a Petzl for comfort reasons. But looking at that old BD, it looks every bit as solid as the new(er) one i have now. Darren, send me your old ones... i'll cover shipping! ;) d

I still wear the old Black Diamond Bod harness for free climbing. No rap loop or any of those frills. It's getting pretty old now, and I may be upgrading soon. I think I've had three of those in nearly 20 years. I'm not dead yet. However, I'm not a huge sport climber, so I'm probably only logging 50-75 falls a year on a harness, I'm guessing. A lot of sport climbers probably get that much mileage in a weekend of "projecting."

If I were putting several hundred falls a year on a harness, I'd probably replace it annually as well.

Daryl Allan wrote:Darren, send me your old ones...

ha!
minelook worse then some harnesses that are 5 years old. the tie in points get worn through the abrasion patch, and into the structural webbing part. belay loop frayed. i am really hard on gear.

Get rid of it quick. Send it to me. I will drop test until the wear on the leg loop section is through the protective webbing. Oh yeah, I am a medium to small so if it is bigger than that never mind.

When in doubt throw it out.
We lost Todd Skinner in a very sad but avoidable accident due to his using a worn out harness.
Sure, climbing gear isn't cheap, but it is waaaay less expensive than hospital or funeral bills.

Yes; a sobering reminder indeed, Tom. Point well recieved. Here's the details on that incident.

I replace my harness when they show signs of wear, but when harness' get rated they are not like ropes that get a "falls test". So replacing them after "x" # of falls probably isn't the normal way of tracking wear on a harness. I mean your weight your rope/harness on lowering, rappelling, falling, so technically each should wear a harness and even if no signs of wear show I've heard 3-5 years. I mean webbing even if not used has a shelf life and that's the strength of the harness(swami/padded webbing). So even if no wear or use I'd say 5 years and 1-3 years for normal use. I've got backups on my belay loops on all my harness, but that only makes me feel slightly safer and only on freak accidents as the backup is not a replacement. I know people that retire their harness every 9 months from heavy use.

I recently read that article about harness wear in Rock and Ice I think. I've had two of the BD Bod harnesses one being about 6 years old now and will still use it. Reasoning is its so beefy. That article mentions something about how many of the very old harnesses that were sent had much higher breaking strengths after years of use than many of the newer ones likely due the the heavy duty webbing used. This also reminds me of a study I was told about (not sure where to find it) that showed how strong old webbing that had been sitting in the elements on alpine routes for unknown years was. Apparently after about 4-5 pieces of the standard 1inch webbing unless there is obvious damage to the webbing it will hold a truck.

It's funny I still use the harness I have had since my neighbor took me climbing as a kid. Last fall I took on it was 3 pitches up. I'm still here. good ol BD bod, probly almost 10 years old now seen maybe 20-30 lead falls. I think I'm gonna upgrade soon though I think I need a wall harness.

I still wear my 30 year old Whillans and, trust me, I never fall on it. I've got kids to prove it.

I ended up ordering a metolius safe tech but have to return it due to sizing issues. Anyone considering this harness, you may want to shoot for the size that puts you in the bottom end of the range. It was recommended to me by the vendor to go with the medium (30-34) for my 33" waist but this maxed out the range (and then some) imo, therefore positioning the left gear loop and tie in point too far apart. So the left gear loop is either past my hip or the tie-in point is not centered. Should get the large (33-37.5) next week.