The "BIVY CAVE" by the Casual Route, Longs

John Langston wrote:Is anyone interested in a bag of smashed assholes? I've got a good source.

What about the "kippered herring" incident John?

John Langston wrote:Is anyone interested in a bag of smashed assholes? I've got a good source.

You mean other then the bag you sit in and type all day? :)

Rob Kepley wrote: What about the "kippered herring" incident John?

HA!
really. That is funny.
Well at least it is getting put to good use.

I guess that is the last time I leave somthing at the base and think it is going to be there when I rap down.
:) classic.

John Langston wrote:On another topic, I'm starting Rob a belay device fund. You can paypal me or use credit cards direct. This will be a great service not only to Rob but to the manufacturers of the devices.

bastard!

John Langston wrote:Sal, there was a broken red pole, no idea on the brand, sticking out one of the cracks on the good bivy cave (not the hilton). As for the beer, something was funny about that can. It weighed half what a can of beer weighed and had no leaks. Very fishy. My bet was that it was some sort of gag. After 4 hard days on a bike, the last 2 being 12+ hours in 100 degree heat, a hike into the diamond, and then D7, I knew my heart couldn't handle whatever was in that can. On another topic, I'm starting Rob a belay device fund. You can paypal me or use credit cards direct. This will be a great service not only to Rob but to the manufacturers of the devices.

I wouldnt think anyone would actually leave a beer behind that they carried up. Could have been a very fishy contents :)

I am still laughing over my pole. I mean really. If somthing is left on the glacier below a climb with parties on the route. Why would someone take it as left gear. Dont know. Maybe I'll pick up a new pack next time I am up there. I coudl use one of those too.
hahahahaha.
If anyone goes up there in the near future and see's that sweet ass red trekking pole and packs that garbage out. I will buy you a 6 pack. That way I do not feel as if I have left crap laying round up there. I wont be able to get up there for at least a month.
And I will pay with Dale's Pale.
Bomb!

John.
Have you ever biked up to Longs then hiked in and climbed/solo'd anything.? I know you have solo'd some goodz.( man eating horns mother :)

Great beta everyone. Joe, I do know you from R&J. Thanks for the scoop. Much appreciated. Brandi and I have scored on a few alpine objectives this summer and I think we got the kinks out.

All this banter and no ripping my Estes Cone ascent. Maybe some more details would help:

1. Brandi told me "we just passed another trail" and I was too arrogant/sleepy to turn around and look at the sign. We were sharing a headlamp to conserve batteries. Brilliant.
2. I lugged 2 70 meter ropes up there and enough cams to climb El Cap.
3. We got to the top of Estes Cone (long after realizing we were on the wrong path and just wanted to get to the top of something) and it was still dark. Of course this resulted in an attempted bivy.
4. The bivy quickly got way too cold and violent shaking chills ensued as we tried to sleep off the dark.
5. We made it to sun-up. Then could not find the faint path back down from the summit in the dawn's early light. Wandering for an hour found the path down. Argument ensues for remainder of hike.
6. We went to Twin Owls hotel in Estes and slept it off. Barely got up Pear Buttress later that day.
7. Stew for another year...

jhump- I bivied up in the cave like place on broadway last Saturday night and had an awesome time. Getting up there was not bad at all and would do it a gain. However, I would not want to be up there in a storm. Right now there is a ton of snow to melt for water.

Kevin- I think I owe you a beer. Hit me up with pm and I'll get you some beer.

SAL- I saw two red poles this weekend. One at the base of N. chimney and the other about 150-200ft above it.

John Langston wrote:I have soloed on the Diamond, I'd like to solo more up there, but after taking a huge whipper up there on terrain I'd previously soloed a couple summer back, I'm kinda cautious about the whole deal.

That's dramatic stuff, John. I'd guess the story would entertain, educate, and warn people. What happened?

Good stuff John.
Yeah dont be going up there and falling off anything. That would not be ideal.

I have never been able to score a good night sleep up there until last bivy. I made sure I caught a buzz before bed. Must be the elevation or just being anxious to climb.

What routes did you solo on the big D?

John Fodor wrote:jhump- I bivied up in the cave like place on broadway last Saturday night and had an awesome time. Getting up there was not bad at all and would do it a gain. However, I would not want to be up there in a storm. Right now there is a ton of snow to melt for water. Kevin- I think I owe you a beer. Hit me up with pm and I'll get you some beer. SAL- I saw two red poles this weekend. One at the base of N. chimney and the other about 150-200ft above it.

Sounds like someone turned my pole into two devices in which snow travel is welcomed.
Oh well.
I just hope they are not laying around creating an eye soar.

Reward will still stand if that is the case.
Otherwise.
whomever you are. I sure hope you enjoyed the extra help.
Whoop Whoop!

jhump wrote:All this banter and no ripping my Estes Cone ascent.

Great laugh on the Estes Cone ascent. Don't worry, must folks around here would be rich if they had a nickel every time they botched an outdoor adventure.

You should have seen the look on the four teenagers I turned around just short of Chasm Lake this last Saturday early AM, one with a Wallmart hand held flashlight, as I calmly announced to them that no they were not on route to hike Longs Peak via the Keyhole. Sometimes, we all just need a little hand.

The cave on Broadway is usually just an overhang. Early in the season (June) the snow sometimes reaches the lip of the overhang and that is when it can be a sweet bivy. The first time I tried the Diamond, what was a beautiful morning turned into an absolute whiteout by the time we got a pitch up Pervertical (which was about 6:30 AM!). Bailing off we were offered shelter and hot tea by Tim and Larry Coats who had dug out the cave and were bivied up there for about a week. It was a really sweet setup and it was hard to leave to face the North Chimney rappels (this was before the other rappels were installed). If you catch it in those conditions and can spend some time up there, it is worth it. However I would recommend approaching it from the Chasm View rappels. Frosty and I tried to haul/hump bags up the North Chimney once to do an aid line on the right side. It was so grim one of us would jug with the pig on our back, which isn't so bad in itself - a common method really for such low angle ground - but we ended up blowing out two set of anchors, and these were anchors with like 6 or 7 pieces. Luckily one piece always held. Either use backpacks (and go light) to haul the carp up or do yourself a favor and take the Chasm View rappels. I must confess I've never done the CV rappels though (always seemed like cheating), but I'm sure it has to be an easier way if you are hauling heavy loads.

Just to throw another option if your siked on the broadway bivy.
The crack of delight.
Not very fun climbing and sucks as it is often wet.
but...
it is bolted. direct and clean. So leading a wet pitch and having your partner jug with a pack on would not be too bad.

When I went this route I was not going "light" I was in running shoes and had a heavy pack on. we did not bring jumars so we were following free as well.
Just stunk and i will never do it again.
but...
if done in the right style it could offer a cleaner and safer way to broadway with gear rather then the choss chim.
and if your worked.
Your already set to bail.

Jed makes alot of really good points. It just isn't worth it to bivy on Broadway or at Chasm View. Bivy above Chasm Lake and you'll be on Broadway one hour after crawling out of the bivy sack. Then you can top out on Longs after you send the Diamond and go down the N. Face and Camel directly to your bivy site. If you Bivy on Broadway you are forced into the Diamond rappel route or chasm view rappels which could be very bad if the Diamond is jammed with other parties or if a big storm is pounding the face. I would rather be on non-technical ground if facing a big storm on the descent or at the bivy.

Jed,
YOU DA MAN!

The N chimney is nothing near a flatiron IMO.
I have never had a 30 pound boulder just topple over right on to my hand in the flatirons yet alone falling rock.
Combine that with multiple parties and an abundance of loose rock and route finding for first timers its harder and more gripping the the casual route itself.
Some people including myself like to relax and enjoy the trip rather then being on a time trial against, other parties, weather and delierium. this is just me though.
I think going for a bivy on yoru first attempt is the way to go since you are in fact learning the lay of the land and how to get around up there. It provides a bit of a saftey net and allows you to hopefully enjoy what your diong.
Im over 19 hour days in the park. But im old.
and weak.

Rob Kepley wrote:However, I watched a couple of guys climbing the North Chimney while I enjoyed a cup of espresso from my warm bag and we still topped out before they did later that day.

That's only half the story. You forget the other early group, who avoided what looked like a logjam on the raps and were drinking a beer in the parking lot while you were probably humping your overnight packs down the trail.

Brian Vajda wrote: That's only half the story. You forget the other early group, who avoided what looked like a logjam on the raps and were drinking a beer in the parking lot while you were probably humping your overnight packs down the trail.

oh,
that was us.
We actually stayed over night the night before.
We are just speed racer fast.

John Langston wrote: Does anyone want to measure dicks? How about a pissing contest? I've been drinking water all day, I'm ready.

I have been drinking beer since noon.
I'll take you on the piss contest.
In terms of dicks. well...
I am sure you have me beat. Mine has been known to be mistaken for somthing else.

oh yeah.
it took me 19 hours round trip to climb the diamond.
From my bivy at chasm.

I don't want in on either contest...

But I will take one more swing at getting Mr. Langston to tell a war story. Come on John, how about it?