a new LA County bouldering guide from Wolverine Publishing

hey guys/gals. just wanted to let everyone know that wolverinepublishing.com and I are working on finishing a new bouldering guide for southern California. So far, it will cover all areas comprehensively, even the obscure areas such as Tick Rock and Sunset Stones. It features color photos of all boulders and route paths of all boulder problems. If anyone has seen the new Bishop bouldering guide, it will be of the same format as it is the same publisher.

well, i need help! I'm looking for anyone who knows the local areas well, and especially anyone who has recent FAs. I'm interested in doing this guide the 'right way' and making it the best climbing guidebook we've seen, but I can't do it alone so any help would be appreciated as far as route data. If you know a local area well and wanna meet up, climb, and help, just lemme know.

I just finished Stoney Point, and am moving onto Malibu Creek. I also have to finish Old Country (Stoney Point North) so if you know that area, I could use some beta. Keep in mind that this guide only covers the bouldering at these areas.

PM me here or visit socalbouldering.blogspot.com to help out.

From the link -

"A working table of contents:

J. Paul Pebble
Tick Rock
Mayas Hidden Stash (a working title)
Sandbox ?
Malibu Tunnel
Malibu Creek State Park
Miniholland Boulders
Purple Stones
Sunset Stones
Stoney Point
Vasquez Rocks
Horse Flats
Mount Baldy
Mount Rubidoux (possible)

There are a few other areas under consideration like Topanga Canyon et al."

All of these areas (except Mt. Rubidoux) are in the same county, so perhaps the title should be LA County Bouldering?

With the explosion of bouldering everywhere perhaps it's best to keep the focus of a guide like this narrow to allow some degree of completeness. Just a thought.

An updated 'working' table of contents:

• J. Paul Pebble
• Tick Rock
• Mayas Hidden Stash (a working title)
• Sandbox ?
• Malibu Tunnel
• Malibu Creek State Park
• Miniholland Boulders
• Purple Stones
• Sunset Stones
• Stoney Point (Old Country included)
• Martian Landing
• The Cell Block (south of Stoney Point)
• Woolsey Canyon
• Vasquez Rocks
• Horse Flats
• Pacifico
• Chilao
• Mount Baldy

There are a few other areas under consideration like Topanga Canyon, Simi Valley, et al.

Anyone know anything about Piuma Road Boulders or Calabasas Peak?

My frend and I found developed Mayan hidden stash so id love to help with that section

JC - Thanks for all the effort, it is an Herculean task. But I have to agree with Chris regarding the name. Any such named guide would be remiss without the inclusion of Mt. Woodson; others that should not be overlooked are Culp Valley and Santee. Probably "LA County Bouldering", or the like, would be best.

About how many pages do you expect the finished product to be?

I hope you don't put me out of business!

Chris Owen wrote:About how many pages do you expect the finished product to be? I hope you don't put me out of business!

when i started the project, i considered how this would affect your book. That's one of the reasons we have decided to do a 'bouldering only' guide that covers all of LA County. Your book will still be viable and have its place because we aren't gonna cover any of the roped climbs anywhere.

Thanks JC - originally Urban Rock was intended to be a top-rope guide specifically.

Are you planning on putting first ascents where known? I know of a few new problems which have been put up in the last year - I'll send them to you off line, of course you may already have them.

Chris.

I see Vasquez Rocks listed- has Texas Canyon been addressed? I think there is more protection and variety for top roping and bouldering as opposed to Vasquez Rocks........?

Is it worthy?

Stone wrote:I see Vasquez Rocks listed- has Texas Canyon been addressed? I think there is more protection and variety for top roping and bouldering as opposed to Vasquez Rocks........? Is it worthy?

good question. take a look at the blog i list above (socalbouldering.blogspot.com) because there is updated information. Vasquez Rocks is just a possibility. I wont know until I go up there and suss it out better. Texas Canyon is also a real possibility. Louie suggested that I give this area a real consideration. And... according to Bill Leventhal, there is a new area close to Vasquez that has better rock than Vasquez and better bouldering potential. I think he and I might take a look at it tomorrow.

I threw out Mayas because it's a choss pile, and I have a few new unknown areas that are up for consideration. The state park system just bought some additional land adjacent to Malibu Creek State Park that has rock.
John Gill has agreed to write an essay for the book.

It's coming along really well. We're hoping to produce the state of the art climbing guidebook. Anyone interested in helping out and has something to offer, we'd love to have your help.

Check the blog for updates!

Joshua

Don't think there's much bouldering at Tick Rock. The couple times I've been there was specifically to check for bouldering opportunities (the drawback of having no partner) but I personally didn't see much potential.

Can you even access the Purple Stones these days? Last time I was there was probably twenty years ago when you could actually park at a pullout on Topanga Canyon.

Fat Dad wrote:Don't think there's much bouldering at Tick Rock. The couple times I've been there was specifically to check for bouldering opportunities (the drawback of having no partner) but I personally didn't see much potential. Can you even access the Purple Stones these days? Last time I was there was probably twenty years ago when you could actually park at a pullout on Topanga Canyon.

Shoot! You kidding me? I love Tick Rock Boulder. It's small, but fun. I spent all day, Saturday digging out the cave a little better in preparation for pictures.

and yes, Purple Stones is alive and well.

There are small, secluded pockets of protected rock all through that area. Up Bouquet Canyon, North of Vasquez Cyn Road, you'll find Movie Rock (I've climbed there) and a few others. I do not recall seeing protection at Vasquez- and the rangers are particular. I know there's protection up Texas Canyon.

hey so when is this new guid book coming out?

JCPace wrote: Shoot! You kidding me? I love Tick Rock Boulder. It's small, but fun. I spent all day, Saturday digging out the cave a little better in preparation for pictures. and yes, Purple Stones is alive and well.

Dang me, I just drove by there today. I'll have stop and check it out.

dan lyons wrote:hey so when is this new guide book coming out?

I'm working hard to get it out by the end of the year. It's coming along pretty well. I'll update you guys as we progress, but for now, I'm doing a lot of field work.

If anyone knows the Pacifico or Chilao areas, I could use some help with em in August.

Joshua Pace

metrowriter.net

bump. did this project die?

i gave the project back to the publisher a while back. as far as i know, someone else has put out a LA guidebook within the last year. not sure though but im pretty sure someone else is working on it or already completed
JP

Hey thanks for the reply JPace. That's a shame, haven't seen a detailed socal bouldering guidebook since Fry's Second Edition. If there's a bouldering-only one that I am missing please, someone enlighten me!

This is the recent one that I know of. Havent seen it personally:

http://www.amazon.com/Best-Climbs-Los-Angeles-Series/dp/0762796324

Bought it, it's pretty meh. Glosses over a TON of information and just hits the bullet points pretty much. Mostly roped climbs.