Moonlight Buttress free attempt 1

I've talked plenty of shit with plenty of you about this very thing. So here it is, my plan for Moonlight this spring. Let me know if you really are interested.

I am hoping to do it in late March or early April, though the time frame is semi flexible. I'm looking for a partner who is both competant and willing to follow the majority of the pitches. Looking at the topo, for me to feel OK about having done the route myself I'll need to climb pitches 3,4,5,6,7, and 8. For a 9 pitch route, that pretty much means I'm doing the whole thing. I'm very willing to do every single pitch too.

I'm looking for someone who wants to do Moonlight Buttress as a second. You've got to either be able to TR up to 12d with relative efficiency or jug and clean with equivalent efficiency. Jugging-wise, the hard pitches aren't too wandering so it should go easy.

Due to the overwhelming popularity of this route, I'd like to do it during the week. I'd suggest leaving on a Sunday, recon on Monday, fire the route on a Tuesday, and drive home on Wednesday. We'll approach it as a hard 9 pitch route, not a wall, because hauling or fixing would be silly.

Let me know if you're interested. It's going to be at least a month and a half before I try and I'd like to have my partner pegged and some logistics worked out long in advance.

Send a resume and preferably a you tube video confirming your claimed jumaring speed. If you could have a notary help confirm that it is actually you in the video, that would make the decision process easier too.

Just messing with you Angry... good luck.

John, I did it this past fall and hope to go back and do it again ASAP. I'd take you up on your offer if you weren't so damn obnoxious. I mean come on: The arrogance to tell your partner how its going to be before you even have a partner... You'll do great though; it's much easier than the ratings suggest. The person who needs "good luck" is whoever the pathetic sap is who actually caters to your ego on this one.

That is really funny. You apparently have no friends and from the sounds of your post, it's not hard to believe.

John, I'm not sure what you're talking about with that "pm other climbers" comment, but if it is what I think it is, there might be more to the story than what you just said (I'd be happy to fill you in).

I've met you in person, and at the time I didn't connect who you were to your handle on rc.com, but the more you sprayed, the more I thought "this guy sounds like that 'angry/fshizzle' dude". When I found out you were the same I thought it was classic: One of the rare people who come across exactly the same in person as they do online. But maybe I just need to get to know you better.

Anyway, I commend you for being very direct and clear about what you want in terms of a partner for this project. If you don't find it, consider rewording your request to offer some sort of compensation to your partner (other than "you get to belay me and jug up behind me on a classic Zion climb"), such as: I want to try to onsight the whole thing, but I'd be happy to return the favor by belaying you on it, or some other climb, during this trip or afterwards.

Also, I'm assuming the topo you looked at doesn't have much info on it and that by "recon on Monday" you mean the approach. Otherwise your ascent would be a flash, not an onsight. And like I said before (don't sell yourself short), the route is extremely "flashable".

John,

Take the shuttle to the Big Bend stop. Look up valley on the other side of the river and you can't miss it. It really is a climbers line.

Walk up the road a good 100 yards. There are several trails but the best one is the one that has NPS trail markers posted. Cross the river, where is it braided the most, and pick up the trail on the other side. Allow about 40 minutes for the approach with gear.

Good luck with your climb.

Have fun.

John

Bump. So....wha happen?