Mountain Project Logo

Recommendation for small passive pro

Eric Krantz · · Black Hills · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 420

Got a set of small Trango brass (someone gave them to me) and the trango Nutz (also free gift). Different shape. I don't climb an awful lot and have never used anything else, so I can't really compare but they go into SD granite nicely, sometimes.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,680
David Houston wrote:I carry some small brass nuts with a cross taper (HB Anchors?) as well on thin routes to have more options.

They don't make HB micros and anchors any more. They are shapes like a tiny #4 BD stopper. I have 2 sets and love them, but the disadvantage is how fat the cable is relative to the head, the advantage is how strong they are and how wide... which is the other disadvantage- not boxy enough for undulating cracks.
Anyway, love them, but I don't know where you'd get them now.
They may still sell offsets, but not anchors.

Ron Olsen · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 11,335
Tony Bubb wrote: They don't make HB micros and anchors any more. They are shapes like a tiny #4 BD stopper. I have 2 sets and love them, but the disadvantage is how fat the cable is relative to the head, the advantage is how strong they are and how wide... which is the other disadvantage- not boxy enough for undulating cracks. Anyway, love them, but I don't know where you'd get them now.
YosemiteGifts.com

sells the HB Offset Brass Nuts.

trundlebum · · Las Vegas NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 85
Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

Neptune's might have some RPs. Call them. Their website is still a bit random. 303/499-8866
Mal

Tavis Ricksecker · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 4,246

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441772083&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302691269&bmUID=1204088849036

Moof · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 25

HB offsets bail me out all the time.

RP's are bread and butter too, but I often find the little seams I'm trying to protect just eat the HB brass better.

I've had my BD steel for a few years now, and I've yet to place it, and not I've stopped taking it with me. Not bad stuff, but I just find that if the RP's and HB won't fit the BD is even less likely to fit.

Stymingersfink · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,035
Daniel Crescenzo wrote:As far as RP's are concerned are there any brands in particular I should lean towards?

Try the RP's. ;)

HB makes some pretty small tapers too, but the rating on such small pieces is often <6kn.. It's just one of the compromises of climbing stuff that only takes really small (clean) gear.

Klimbien · · St.George Orem Denver Vegas · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 455
Tom Hanson wrote: When you look at the #2 Crack-n-Up, you'll see why they never marketed the #1

this original post is >10 yrs old, but thought I'd bring it back to life. 

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,944

DMM IMP nuts.  Look like RPs but better.

David Nation · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 0
Tom Hansonwrote: When you look at the #2 Crack-n-Up, you'll see why they never marketed the #1

Purchased in Yosemite Village at the Mountain Store in 1976.  If I had known what I was doing I probably wouldn't have bought the #1, but there it is....  Never used.

Josh Rappoport · · Natick, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 31

DMM brass offsets. 

NickMartel · · Tucson, Arizona · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 1,332

@ David

Except the mythical #1 crack n up is supposed to be worth big $$$$$. One thread many years ago said they thought less than 10 survived?

Klimbien · · St.George Orem Denver Vegas · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 455
NickMartelwrote:

@ David

Except the mythical #1 crack n up is supposed to be worth big $$$$$. One thread many years ago said they thought less than 10 survived?

Cool cool

jc5462 · · Hereford, Arizona · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

I PREFER TO CARRY THE HUGH BANNER ANCHORS AND THE OFFSETS.

TRANGO BRASSIES

HUGH BANNER OFFSETS

HUGH BANNER ANCHORS

RP'S

BLACK DIAMOND STEEL NUTS

CHOUINARD COPPER / STEEL NUTS

CASSIN BRASS WEDGES

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Recommendation for small passive pro"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.