Anyone willing to do the Naked Edge with me?

I am hoping to ask someone to climb the Naked edge with me when conditions permit.

I am a competent climber at the 5.12 sport level (sport park), but only 5.10+ trad. I have lead many routes in Eldo, but have not ventured enough into the 5.11 range as my cojones are not quite large enough.

I am willing to lead some of the route, but hoping I can talk someone into showing me the way, and then I can pull them up wind ridge.

I would be willing to supply all requisite gear, as well as whatever else it takes to entice (ie. Dinner at the Southern Sun or McDonalds, a six pack, a new fifi hook).

Is anyone willing to show a solid climber the way of the Edge?

Nice John!

Chris is an excellent climber and an all around great guy.
Don't give him any crap and take him seriously.
Hey Chris, at least you know which gumbies not to climb The Edge with.

I think John actually made the offer to help Chris out; but I guess it came off like something else.

Tom Hanson wrote:Chris is an excellent climber

I wondered about this when I was browsing his profile page. Chris, I don't know what your gear skills are, but if you are sound with placing gear, and can lead 5.12 sport, just grab a partner and do the route. I used to guide this route, and it isn't very hard - 11a or b, tops. The gear is solid. P4 has a tricky placement, getting into the chimney, but nothing significant. Most of the belays are bolted, except for the top, but you can tie off to trees.

It is a really fun route with no surprises. The cruxes are short and well protected. The exposure after the P5 crux, heading into the lieback, is awesome. Classic route.

JOHN - If you are serious, I would be willing to climb all day with you..even if Naked Edge is just a warmup for you. I can climb upper 12's, so if there is a climb that you would be interested in doing afterwards, great. Let me know if you are serious.

KEN - Thanks for the confidence booster! I know I should just go for it, so depending on how this turns out...

TOM - You are the man in many ways. Thanks for everything!

Chris and I will march up that thing in mid Feb.
After that you can find us over on The Web climbing barefoot and toasting PBR's to a classic warm up.

This place is just as cool as myspace!
Im switching for life.

It's on, SAL!

Dave Holliday wrote: How does the fourth pitch compare in difficulty to the first?

I eventually found a no-hands rest at the P1 crux. You have to stem your feet way out to get it, but it allows for a good shake out. I think P4 is a little awkward but not strenuous. Once you get your shoulders against the back wall, it's over. Just make sure that you traverse right when you leave the chimney. There is a bulge that goes straight up, but it is hard 5.11. I did it this way the first three times on the route and thought it was the route crux. Finally, while guiding a friend of mine who had followed Derek Hersey on it several times, he asked me why I didn't do the easy traverse. I looked, dumbfounded, and said: I never realized the route went that way. The traverse right is about 10a or less.

chris,

the first time i did this route, i was pretty worked up. i had climbed many harder routes but none of them were "the edge"! i grew up looking at this route and it (and several others) grew to something much bigger than a rock climb. i am not certain if that is part of what you are experiencing (i have NOT done jules verne about 15 times because of this exact series of reactions. know many a partner who has and has said what a hoot it is but it is a different route for me...have done bigger, harder, scarier...but none of them were jules verne.) but i suspect that all of us have these routes.

many have commented on the specifics and i agree. i think the 1st pitch is a touch easier than the 4th (kens beta is spot on imo) and the 5th is just stupid fun. i don't live in eldo anymore but look very forward to your post on how much fun you had. i still make it over to that side of the hill pretty often so if i don't see your post, i will look you up and we can have a go at it. have fun.

For what's it's worth, I too can vouch for Chris's climbing ability and the fact that he is a great guy. I have watched him (as I belay with mouth agape) do some stuff that I can't even touch....Whoops, that's not saying much.

He really is a very good climber.

Lee Smith wrote:I have watched him (as I belay with mouth agape) do some stuff that I can't even touch....Whoops, that's not saying much.

That's funny Lee. Chris' post is interesting, as I've got a few multipitch trad routes I'd like to do in the future, for which I'd need a rope gun. Except, unlike Chris, I can't climb 5.12...

Hey Bob,

The question is...can it be done with one bicept?

JF

Is the Naked Edge climbable this time of year? (I haven't even been into eldo this time of year really).

Does it really close as early as Feb 1st?

If the answers are yes and yes, then I'll get after it with you Chris. I haven't been on that route yet, but I've been meaning to of course. I'm in pretty good shape and shouldn't have too much difficulty leading the cruxy pitches. I definitely don't mind taking a fall or two either if I'm wrong. Either way, we'll get up it. Let me know if you haven't found any takers yet and maybe we could get after it on the next sunny day.

--Marc

Bob,

Don't forget... I did the first one eyed ascent in the 90'S

Back in town,

JF

If I could lead it, I'd do it just for the chance to have dinner with you! You are my hero!

All joking aside Chris is the best all around climber I've ever climbed with: fast, focused, and safe.

THANKS EVERYONE!

Hopefully we'll get some good weather prior to the closures.

Have fun!

*** wrote: That's funny Lee. Chris' post is interesting, as I've got a few multipitch trad routes I'd like to do in the future, for which I'd need a rope gun. Except, unlike Chris, I can't climb 5.12...

Kateri,
I took the liberty of looking at your "todo" list. In my debilitated state, I think the only one I could manage would be Bitty Buttress....Helluva good route. I'd be happy to take you up it.

This post does bring up an interesting topic. How does one hook up with that climber who is just a little better than oneself? Or is stronger, more experienced, did the route before etc. Interesting topic, maybe we should start a thread.

Lee Smith wrote:How does one hook up with that climber who is just a little better than oneself? Or is stronger, more experienced, did the route before etc.

Ah, good question. I'd consider rope gunning someone up a classic route if I could lead it and he/she was a safe climber & belayer. Personally, I prefer leading vs following if the route is within my ability.

However, having said that... on a multipitch trad line I'd be much more comfortable going out with someone who could swap leads or take over leading if necessary - e.g. you get spooked over something, lose your confidence, find you're moving along too slowly, etc.

If only the weather would warm up sometime for tackling that "to do" list...

I hear you, Kateri. I was having a great Summer and early Fall on some weekends.

Its that *!@$#@&*%$#&! "Mountain Wave" cloud. The bane of everyone except ice climbers. Hate that thing. And they never tell you its going to be there again tomorrow, all you get is "it'll be partly cloudy", or "40 degrees with filtered sunshine." I hate those smiley face weather forecasters. I want to see a Lewis Black type guy do the weather: "and for those of you you have made plans to get outside this weekend, YOU'RE SCREWED!"

It actually hasn't been too bad of a year at the Wood, though. Been having a nostalgia tour (along with Chris here and Tom H) of the old routes without the constant worry that 20 snakes are quietly surrounding you.