What to do if your belayer goes down.

What are the best options for the leader if he pops a rock and the belayer gets injured, like being knocked unconscious. What kind of self rescue options are there on multipitch climbs. I often trail a 7mm tag for a bail.

Let's assume you managed to keep from falling and that your belay is now essentially off. Your partner also is tied in. One could put the rope going down to your belayer into your belay device and lower yourself on your last piece, assuming it is good. If you are not completely through the pitch, you might be able to meet your unconscious belayer that way and give aid. If you are too far into the lead, build a bomber anchor, untie from the rope, and fix the lead line there. Then rappel to your unconscious belayer and give aid.

It all depends:

A: If you are in a stable spot and can rig an anchor?
1: Fix rope and rap down to them.
2: Pull up remaining rope, and self lower or rap from anchor
3: Rope solo out and hike back around or short way to help
4: Rap down for help
5: Attach partner, then rap both of you down
6:Fix them to the point you both can get out safely.

B: If you can't anchor in:
1: Finish the climb or climb to a spot where A is applicable.
2: Pull up all extra rope and tie in short- whip, then self lower/rappel to bottom
3:down climb to where A is applicable

C:Are at the anchor/top and need to get partner up
1: Get help, then come back
2: Fix line and rap to them, stabalize them, get them ready for hauling, then jug up, haul out
3: Set up haul, rap on hauling side and clean gear as you go, and if possible haul from them (pulley system needed probably)
4: rap to them, and "fix" them to the point that you both can get out

Just a few things, in no particular order.

Tim Stich wrote:Let's assume you managed to keep from falling and that your belay is now essentially off. Your partner also is tied in. One could put the rope going down to your belayer into your belay device and lower yourself on your last piece, assuming it is good. If you are not completely through the pitch, you might be able to meet your unconscious belayer that way and give aid. If you are too far into the lead, build a bomber anchor, untie from the rope, and fix the lead line there. Then rappel to your unconscious belayer and give aid.

If you're trailing that 7mm bail rope, rather than fix the lead line, set it (the lead) to rap from, utilizing the 7mm to pull the cord when you arrive at the belay and damaged belayer. Depending on how far off the ground you are, you may wish to clean the pitch on rappell, or just leave your gear to retrieve later.

It would depend IMHO, on whether you'll need some of that gear to make the retreat. Bolted anchors all the way down... time is of the essence... no need to down-aid? Fuck-it, get it later.

Trad anchors, down-aiding necessary? Clean the pitch, and quick.

It Depends® if the 7mm® line has been contaminated with cat p®ss.

I nailed Matt in the leg with a block. I downclimbed & we bailed/rapped; he ended up not too bad.

I would say the first thing is to protect yourself as a lead climber - go into aid/anchor/downclimb mode; don't fall.

Learn some basic first aid, belay escapes, some buddy assist/evac methods. Haul systems, too; but mostly I look for top & down movement for vertical evac, I think it's quicker than uphauls.

Just don't do any further harm to your partner or yourself.

WAHOO!!! It's friggin Miller Time, babay!!!