Lost tool on the Great White Icicle

I dropped a petzl tool on the fuvkin' GWI this past thursday and am hoping that someome might of snagged it off of the climb. It is easily identifiable as mine and I would be psyched to get it back, The reward now stands at 1,000,000.00 to any man women or child who finds the missing tool.........

Thanks,
Erik

Speaking of ice, I just was fortunate enough to climb the Storm Mountain Falls. That things is in and in very nicely. We saw tracks from another party. Was wondering who it was? Definitely one of those obscure climbs that rarely forms so well and I had never done it, so I was very psyched to get this one in. Thankyou to the previous party as we topped out and followed your tracks down the East Facing descent gully via two long raps and that avoided descending the route via those skanky looking stations we used on the way up. Definitely the way to go. Very cool climb, but definitely in the WI4+ to WI5 range.
As far as the lost tool, good luck....I haven't heard anything, sorry.

ErikK wrote:I dropped a petzl tool on the fuvkin' GWI this past thursday and am hoping that someome might of snagged it off of the climb. It is easily identifiable as mine and I would be psyched to get it back, The reward now stands at 1,000,000.00 to any man women or child who finds the missing tool......... Thanks, Erik

That is what you get for climbing it midweek and trying to find some solitude, on a weekend, 3 different groups could have brought it to you on top. And it sounds like you were leashless? Ouch, that can get expensive.

Just joking. Good luck getting it back.

Nice James, those where my tracks you saw, we went all the way to the top and rapped the big gully off to the east. None of us wanted to rap off of those shitty pins at the base of the last pillar. That gully is def. the way to go, none of us had climbed it before and that seemed like the most logical way down, we left slings for the 2 raps. What a fun climb!!

ErikK wrote:Nice James, those where my tracks you saw, we went all the way to the top and rapped the big gully off to the east. None of us wanted to rap off of those shitty pins at the base of the last pillar. That gully is def. the way to go, none of us had climbed it before and that seemed like the most logical way down, we left slings for the 2 raps. What a fun climb!!

No, the way to do is the gully to the west. It's a walk-off, or luge when conditions are what they seem to be lately.

Much easier, much more enjoyable.

Since it was your first trip up, it is perhaps excusable...

this time.
;)

I agree with ErikK totally. Thank you so much for the tracks! Did you have a #3 Camalot? That would have been nice for the first pitch, eh? It seemed so straight forward to follow their tracks down the East Gully. I agree, the pins and belay stations in place to rappel the route were not at all inviting. Scary!!!! I agree, it was also our first time ad we had always wanted to do it. One of those rare climbs only available every now and then. A great climb, indeed.
I had never even climbed up that high in that area before. It felt sooooooo alpine! Cool. I doubt if this climb will last much longer....one warm day and this south facing gem will vanish!

I think Steve H put up some sport climbs on that roof and face up and left of the top pitch of the ice a few years back. Pretty bouldery stuff way high off the deck and its cool to be so high up there. Last spring there were some two bolt bomber anchors to use that I thought were in between the two sides of the ice. They were totally bomber and you could rap with one 70m rope.

I envisioned doing a nice 5.7 up the space between where the ice flows but then figured it would interfere with the classic ice line. It would make a really cool, juggy 5.7 or maybe .8 too but two pitches of stainless hardware and the bits to drill that quartzite would be pricey.

Stevo's route starts just to the RIGHT of this water ice climb sadly called merely Storm Mountain Falls. (deserves a more worthy name!) His route, which I can't remember the name of just this minute due to an acute exacerbation of Alpenheimers Syndrome, but it is just to the right of the first pitch like 5 feet and is 5.9 and a full nice 30m pitch.

The ice climb is 4 pitches if you go to the end of the climbing the way we and ErikK's party did it. We probably wouldn't have kept going if we hadn't been inspired by ErikK's tracks always going higher and higher! The whole thing was more than we actually expected. I have done the rock climb about 3-4 times, and I am fairly certain it does NOT go up any higher for like further pitches. In fact, the anchor for that rock pitch is below the rotten slings attached to various fixed nuts and mank, and pins on the belay of the first pitch of the ice climb.
I don't think a 5.7 rock climb drilled as you mentioned would at all interfere with this climb...and if any of the bolts were usable during the few times this ice thing does get climbed, they would surely be welcomed! Are you guys really that pure? This is not a climb for people who are used to fixed pro in the mixed world or do not know how to place pins and set up anchors themselves. Maybe the infrequency of climbing it, however, negates the idea of establishing bomber more permanent anchors?

This is a welcome opinion for me and kind of makes me want to take a second look this spring when things thaw. Wouldn't want to go and mess up the place and doing it would require some expensive hardware.

The route I was talking about isn't in the guidebook. Are you talking about Transformer? that 5.8 to the right of the falls? When you climb up the ridge from the top of Transformer for a full 70m you cross through the falls then cut back right under that roof for a nice, fat set of anchors that are left of the ice flow. Just above this is an inverted 'L' shaped face and roof that is kinda rotten - that's the route I think Steve did. Those rap anchors are down and left of the falls and between that further left ice flow in. Looking at the pic those anchors are irrelevant to the ice climb and this pic shows it.

Yea, maybe that is the name? Transformer. Good climb. We looked for other anchors and certainly would have used them if we could have. Didn't see any other anchors or bolts aside from those on Transformer, but then again, we were kind of focused on the route and maybe had tunnel vision.
From your pic, I can't make out the routes very well as I can't seem to zoom in on my computer? Why any more expensive hardware than anything else in BCC? Just wondering as I am not about to buck up and start in with the stainless steel in the Wasatch. Nice idea in a really wet place, but here?.

Stymingersfink wrote: No, the way to do is the gully to the west. It's a walk-off, or luge when conditions are what they seem to be lately. Much easier, much more enjoyable. Since it was your first trip up, it is perhaps excusable... this time. ;)

oops, my bad. I missed the change in routes!

So sue me!

Can i have a little salt with my crow?

Just got off the phone with Rick Wyatt, who did the first ascent, he thinks a bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch would be a service. I was up there yesterday and located a good spot for this. If my old drill can still handle a charge, I may do this. The location that seemed best would be the spot next to the manky pin/nut anchor.

My one reservation for this is that chains could turn this thin/fragile pitch into a toprope fest...any thoughts?

Brian,
Very cool of you to throw in some real history! When did the Reverend first do it? 80's?
I think a bolted anchor there would be great, especially if you are going up to climb it in the coming days. If it is just for a belay and not to turn into a top rope place, maybe consider NOT installing chains on the bolts? In any event, I just don't see this place becoming a top rope fest. I really don't. To rappel the route from good anchors would be nice, though. I will be happy to join you if you want.

Ya James, that climb has a really cool alpine feel to it, so much fun!!! We went from the base to the pin belay with a 70m rope and skipped the tat wad at the top of P1. I was going to go back there today but the canyon was closed....

But Back to my tool, seriously, I am still hopeful.....

Yo James:

The Reverend and his tall lanky, ape-like partner (Dave Jenkins) climbed it in 1979. We did it a week later after they spilled the beans. The thin smear to the left was also climbed in the 80's.

Yeah, I know the bolts would be nice, because sometimes the upper pillar doesn't touch down, but...its cool to see parties going all the way. A possible top-rope fest could include neophytes, clients, dogs, tents etc. Gosh I'm selfish.

P.S. sorry about your tool Erik

thanks Brian, maybe I'll have to wait till the spring.....

Cheers
Happy New Year!!!

Dallen led and I followed it this morning the way Erik did, skipping the tat and going to the pin anchor. We ran out of time and bailed off the base of the pillar, rapping down to the tat. Dallen cleaned up the anchor for the short term (pics later - I'm waaay late for work!)

Brian, you know you can always borrow my drill - I'd go up with you tomorrow morning if you want. I have bolts, etc that'd work. Chains if a link or whatever you guys want. Were you thinking just down and left of the tat so you could stand in there better. We were laughing that Brian just wants those old pins anyway. heh heh. A 70m rope almost reaches the top of Transformer. That thing will never evolve into a TR fest as leading it requires... well, its not the same.

Thanks for bringing it up guys or we wouldn't have gotten on it. Really fun watching Dallen sew (er - screw) it up. Way cool climb.

I went back up there today and climbed the bolted line a few feet to the right of P1 of storm mountain falls. It may be a rock route in the summer but it makes for a cool mixed pitch with the sparse ice plastered on it. The falls are still in good shape as of today but the first pitch is starting to get beat out.

ErikK wrote:I went back up there today and climbed the bolted line a few feet to the right of P1 of storm mountain falls. It may be a rock route in the summer but it makes for a cool mixed pitch with the sparse ice plastered on it. The falls are still in good shape as of today but the first pitch is starting to get beat out.

next time step left 40' left from the bolt line you were on, that flow will tie in to the pin belay fairly easily.

Upper pillar was wet, slung a random 'cicle for the gully descent as darkness was rapidly overcoming with no rap slings in sight, second sling wasn't too difficult to find.

the best day working, definitely.

this:

does not inspire confidence. Its gone now and replaced with rap rings down and left about 8 feet. They are at a much better stance, easier to reach and right in line with the climb. I'm not sure, but a 60m rope might work - we had a 70. Hope it helps.

You guy's must have done that this morning, eh? Nice work... and a more logical, comfortable location.