Easy and Safe climbs - New routes in Calico Hills

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Lots of us are still climbing in our 50's, 60's and 70's at a reasonable level and it sounds more like you need to either get back in shape (many of us had to) or better match climbs (and possibly areas) to your current skill level. You might want to reconsider the notion that rocks should be bolted or bolted down to provide access or accomodate such 'needs'. It strikes me as a commodification of rock and a pretty consumer-oriented approach to our resources.

I don't think you need to belittle Forest Healyje.

If there is rock to be climbed, why not climb it. Beginner climbers are climbers too and need love. There is no need to be elitest about what chunk of rock is worthy of bolts and what chunk of rock isn't.

I'm not. I am suggesting he reconsider his attitude towards both rock and "safety". Rock to be climbed and rock to be drilled, and drilled for "safety", are two very different things - at least to me. No you may think it's all just your personal pallete to be drilled at will; but not all of us share that belief. The whole topic of the perception that climbs should be "safe" or made risk-free, particularly be someone else, is yet a whole additional topic. Either way, it just isn't a notion I'm willing to let go by without at least a comment - regardless of the age or condition of the poster.

.... because the people who volunteer their time and spend their own personal funds on drill bits and bolts, etc are going to put up a route that they want to climb and they are not beginners.

I don't think we need more bolts.
You just needed more beta!

"Is there some political / legal reason climbs of this nature (safe and easy) have yet to be developed at Red Rock? Or is it a group of climbs who's time has just not yet come to Red Rock?"

The answer is Yes !
There are very good reasons why you found the situation to be as such.
You should have posted before your visit asking for beta.

(assuming you already have the rope, swami and a few biners)
For less than the cost of a dozen bolts, you could build a simple trad rack.
With a simple rack there are more than enough well safe/well protected, moderate, routes to keep you busy for many visits to come. To name a few:

- Frogland
- Johnny Vegas
- Cat in the hat
- Geronimo
- Peaches
- Physical Graffitti

If all you have is the equipment and desire to do 'clip up' routes:
(when you were in Sandstone Quarry, you were within eye shot of "Man's Best Friend")
- Man's Best Friend
(when you were at Cowlick crag you were in sight of "cut your teeth" crag)
- Panty Wall
What about Crimson Chrysalis ?

I don't think we need more bolts.
I think you just need more beta!

In the thread you linked to:
you mention the legality of bolting in certain areas, you are from SLC and you seem more knowlegable about the legality of bolting at Red Rocks than I, and I have climbed there for the past year.
If you know that bolting is legal at Calico and you now know that there are not routes to your liking there, get a drill and rob a hardware store. Lord knows, with a $1000 power drill you can put (engineer) a new route (almost anywhere)in a little less time than it takes to repeat it.

I don't like bolts much.
I find the black corridor to be no more appealing than the local gym...
(more chicks at the gym)

But if you were to go out to Calico and put up a route like "Man's Best Friend", I would do it at some point and appreciate your efforts.

One of the many things that I am constantly struck with regarding Red Rocks, is the volume of resource and the relatively little overall development. If you peruse the guide book, you'll see that half of the development at Red Rocks has been in just the past 6 - 8 years.

In this day and age I think most all climbing areas (of any size) offer both trad and sport crags. Even though I don't find places like the 'Black Corridor' at all attractive I still climb in places like it once in a while.
Curious how places like 'Black Corridor' are never far from a parking lot 'eh?

In short Forrest:
I think that you perhaps, like myself, look at the volume of resource, and the overall length of time that climbers have been developing routes and expect more. But that is part of the awesome beauty of Red Rocks! We just started 2008 and there is miles and miles of first ascents lying in wait at Red Rocks.

So perhaps you should be part of it?
Just as the question goes...
"why is a 5.12 climber special?"
Why can't an older guy go out and develop super fun easy routes?

But before you go for the drill, I would say next time you visit Red Rocks, post here asking for 'easy to moderate, well protected routes at Red Rocks?' and give it a week, and you will see pages upon pages of suggestions.

Would you rather be drilling, or climbing ?

we don't need more bolts.
You just need more beta!

Good points made by all. Certainly more beta would help but I agree with Forest that more climbs at the lower end of the difficulty spectrum would be nice. I have not taken a hiatus from climbing but have been slowed by arthritis and carpal tunnel sydrome such that training harder is just not an option. But I refuse to quit climbing. Hanging around on "easy and safe" routes after 40 years of climbing is a small price to pay to stay on the rocks.

climbing is not safe! climbs are not safe! Most of the accidents in red rocks over the years have occurred on these types of routes.