Lone Peak

Hey I am planning on heading up Lone peak in the next little while to climb the lowe route and open book. I was wondering if anyone could give me some good climbs to prepare for them in either bcc or lcc.
Thanks
Landon

Hey Landon. In bcc climb Burn Tough, Depth of Field and The Highlander, maybe throw in Big in Japan for working the crimp strength. In lcc climb S Crack, Bong Eater and Dorsal Fin. Finish those and you should be ready for Lone Peak, and don't forget to run up Mt. Olympus with a 60# pack a few times to work the cardio for the Lone Peak approach. Have fun; the cirque is beautiful and those two routes are great.

Thanks for such a quick reply, I have had this question on another page for a few days and nothing. On question though why such tough climbs to prepare for a .7 and .8, the climbs mentioned are .10d up to .12b. Which you already knew that, but I am just curious.
Thanks again,
Landon

The Lowe Route is not as hard as Satan's Corner, so that and anything like it are good warm ups. Haven't done the Open Book so no info there.

Anyone know what the water conditions are like right now in the cirque?

Great routes! On July 4th we climbed the Lowe Route 5.8 to the top of the Question Mark wall, then hung up there to watch the fireworks from the top. On the 5th, we climbed the Open Book 5.7, threatening clouds kept us from doing a second climb, so we just hiked around and came down on the morning of the 6th. Nice and relaxing.

We filtered water from a snowfield which was melting back about 2 feet a day (probably long gone by now). The stream may still be flowing (about 10-20 minute hike from camp).

5.8 is at my current limit of trad leading, and I had to take once or maybe twice on the first pitch of the Lowe Route; solid pro. Be the person to lead the last pitch.

The open book 5.7 had some tricky sections that made me think, but that's why it's a fun route. The end of this route is not that spectacular, but takes you amazingly close to the summit block. Have a few large hexes for the first three pitches.

My wife agrees that Satan's Corner is a good prep for these climbs. All my 5.8 leads have been out of town before this one: North Chimney of Castlton, Black Orpheous and other multipitchers in Red Rocks, and other misc fun climbs.

Run a few laps on the Outside Corner in BCC. Do everything on Dead Snag from the East Dihedrals to Steort Ridge one afternoon.

Thanks for the info.
Landon

I was up there weekend before last, and the snow patches were almost gone. There was water just below the cirque. If we get some precip those will fill up, but I wouldn't count on water, otherwise.

Lando, when are you going? if i can go...i'd love to...
J.Knight...why don't you come too? i never got take you up on that last invite?

glen
733-0065

I'm thinking about Sunday, Glen. I'll give you a call.

sorry bud...sunday night is a $$$shift for me at the porcupine...i've got to work it after the investments needed for these last few completed projects...but i could get up on monday with you???

Not sure when I am heading up, but want to in the next little while. I will let you know when I do.
Landon