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Climbing around Sundance

Original Post
Sam Gileadi · · Surf City · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 30

I'm not very familiar with the area around Sundance and am considering living in a cabin in the area for a month or two. It would be nice if there were some climbing close of course...

Is there anything up there? Routes? Bouldering?

jtwalter · · Orem, UT · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806

There are some routes in North Fork Canyon, but they're about a mile down canyon from Sundance.

I hiked up to them once and seem to remember a handful (maybe 5-10) of routes in the mid .10 - mid .12 range. I'm sure that Darren at Mountainworks would have some information on the routes.

Tim Hannig put them up when he was working at Sundance back in the 90s. From what I understand the powers that be at Sundance were none too pleased.

jtwalter · · Orem, UT · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806
TP in SLC wrote: I heard the hangers were removed shortly after being bolted. There might be some studs to work with up there.......

I'll hike up and have a look on my way home tonight.

Sam Gileadi · · Surf City · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 30
TP in SLC wrote: I heard the hangers were removed shortly after being bolted. There might be some studs to work with up there.......

Ahh, I hope not.

Yeah, anything around there in that general area would be cool to know about. I will check in at Mountainworks for sure.

jtwalter · · Orem, UT · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806

OK, so I hiked up to the one wall that I had been to before and it still had bolts in it.

There is a big bolder on the right side of the road 1.7 miles up the canyon (from the Provo Canyon turnoff). If you head east up the scree slope and then follow the cliff to the left you'll come to some routes. There are at least 2 routes up there. The farthest left looked to be in the mid to high .12 range. The one on the right was hard to guess, but maybe a mid .11.

The one on the left may have had the first bolt removed, as it was quite high to the first bolt that I could see. It's a very steep route and it looked pretty stiff. There are chains at the top of it. I couldn't tell about the chains, but the bolts and hangers still looked to be in very good conditions.

I couldn't see the chains at the top of the one on the right, but the bolts and hangers looked good there too. It's not near as steep and has a roof at the 1st bolt, after which the angle eases off and looked like it might slab out a little.

There use to be a wall that was in the 1.2-1.4 mile section of the canyon. It looked like there were still some routes that may have had chains and bolts on it, but I really couldn't tell. It was hard to see, even though it's closer to the road than the other wall. I didn't have time to hike up to that wall too. It seems like that wall used to have about four routes on it.

At any rate I'd check with Mountainworks and see whats up.

Sam Gileadi · · Surf City · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 30

Very cool of you to hike up there and take a look! Thanks for the info.

jtwalter · · Orem, UT · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806
S. Gileadi wrote:Very cool of you to hike up there and take a look! Thanks for the info.

No problem. If I can remember it I'll take my camera tomorrow and take a couple of photos of the wall/routes on the way home.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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