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ASCA Red Rocks bolt replacement in the last 10 days

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Greg Barnes · · American Safe Climbing Asso… · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,679

Here's an update on what we replaced - the most notable are bolts on Epinephrine, Refried Brains, Nightcrawler.

American Ghostdance: Replaced bad hangers at first pitch belay with new hangers.

Epinephrine: Replaced 7 protection bolts (2 on pitch off Black Tower, 2 on pitch off Elephant's Trunk, 3 on next pitch).

La Cierta Edad: Replaced top anchor (all bolts now replaced), and 3 bolts on the raps shared with Unfinished Symphony (still some old bolts on the raps).

Mushroom People: Replaced slings with links/rap rings.

Nightcrawler: Replaced 10 bolts: 6 pro bolts p3, anchor p3, 2 pro bolts p4. Anchors and one pro bolt p3 previously replaced, don't know by whom. Didn't get to the anchor on top of p5.

Refried Brains: Replaced anchor p5 (one bolt had already broken off at anchor!), and 3 pro bolts p6 (first had been replaced previously). All bolts to the top of pitch 6 now good (original Joanne Urioste pitch numbering).

Sandstone Samurai: Replaced all 6 bolts pitch 1 (4 pro bolts, 2 anchor). Note that previously replaced bolt identified as Sandstone Samurai (from our BV Wall replacement in 2001) is not on that route, but on an unknown variation (probably to Rock Warrior). Also, there is an unknown route left of Sandstone Samurai (and right of American Ghostdance) with old 1/4" bolts.

Small Purchase: Replaced 2 bolts at anchor, removed 2 plus the hanger off of the 3rd. The 3rd bolt's stud is still sticking out, I didn't have the right tools to pull that bolt without scarring the rock.

The Flesh: Replaced the pro bolt on the first pitch (this route starts up Refried Brains then goes right, it's in Roxanna's guide).

Replacement by Greg Barnes, Josh Thompson, Matt Ruppell, John Wilder, Julie Haas.

Ron Olsen · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 11,335

Great work, Greg! What hardware did you use?

I urge all climbers who benefit from the ASCA's work to make a donation to the cause: visit the ASCA website and click on the "Make a Donation" link. You can contribute via PayPal or credit card.

Greg Barnes · · American Safe Climbing Asso… · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,679

Hardware: all 3/8 x 2.25" stainless 5-piece (aka Power-bolts), hangers were Petzl, Fixe, Metolius. Yeah, not the largest bolts, but that's what you get with hand drilling, and they're way better than the nearly-30-year old 1/4" Urioste bolts! The rock was good to excellent (getting towards granite on the hand drilling time), we use a combo of those bolts and 1/2 x 2.75" if the rock is softer (or even longer 1/2" in really soft rock - like the bolt on the last pitch of Black Magic).

rex parker · · las vegas n.v · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 245

i just want to say thank you for all the hard work all you guys have done, i don't know how to replace bolts properly or to even place them in the first place so thanks for making things safer.and if you guys are planning on replacing more stuff soon i would love to tag along and watch ,ill haul gear or whatever, Rex

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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