Rock Warrior

Anybody done it? I can't find info about it anywhere....

Are you talking about Arno Ilgner's "Rock Warrior's Way" clinics?

I've never attended one of his clinics, but I went to a slide show of his and have read a bit of his book and many of his magazine articles. He has a very interesting and unique approach to the mental aspects of climbing.

Arno maintains a discussion group over at Rockclimbing.com that might be worth checking out, but I'd start by reading his book.

Now that I've mentioned all this, your probably just talking about a climb called "Rock Warrior". Oh well.

Chris

Thanks, but yeah, I'm talking about Jay Smiths route in RedRocks... "Rock Warrior"

I am also curious about Rock Warrrior. The Swain guide gives almost every pitch an R rating, and I was wondering if anyone whose climbed it would agree. Did you climb this thing Odub?

Good route. Yes, there are several sections that could be considered run-out and "heady". From what I recall, though, all bolts are good and the climb was very fun. I do not recall thinking that any potential fall was dangerous or "R", just long. Give it a go. It does not nearly get as much traffic as some of it's neighbors because of the reputation.

Although there are plenty of runouts, I remember most of this route being safe since it is a clean wall and thus a clean fall. The only part I remember being serious was getting to the first bolt. We did it in the late 80s, so it's a bit fuzzy, but I remember facing a grounder on .10-(?) moves about 40 feet off the deck, right before you clip the first bolt. The crux is right after the first bolt and is safe. I think we counted about 10 bolts in about 1000' of climbing but you can get a lot of nut placements behind flakes and sling a few too. One of the most amazing face routes for sure.

Did this route a year ago.
I agree with the above posters that the falls would not be dangerous due to hitting anything, but there is potential to fall BIG at some of the crux's. As I recall at the crux of the route you are protected by a small, but good alien in a horizontal(at your feet), which is about 10(+?) ft above a good bolt. Something like that.....the first pitch is totally safe as it's the first and well bolted pitch on the Gobbler.

ENJOY!

josh

Thanks for the beta. I am going to do this thing next month.

J. Thompson wrote:Did this route a year ago. I agree with the above posters that the falls would not be dangerous due to hitting anything, but there is potential to fall BIG at some of the crux's. As I recall at the crux of the route you are protected by a small, but good alien in a horizontal(at your feet), which is about 10(+?) ft above a good bolt. Something like that.....the first pitch is totally safe as it's the first and well bolted pitch on the Gobbler. ENJOY! josh

Wait!! That woould be beta for Fiddler on the roof...NOT Rock warrior.

For Rock Warrior I'd agree with what the folks above have already said....sorry for my mistake!

josh