GWI anchor shennanigans

So I went up to GWI yesterday and found changes have been made to 5 of the anchors. The first set have had the chains removed. The set of rap anchors on the platform just below the bulge have been completely removed. Rapping from that point is no longer an option. The belay anchors at the bottom of the bulge pitch were removed and new bolts added. There is one empty bolt hole there and the old bolts are there because they are hex head and they probably didn't have the right tool to remove them. The spanking new, obtrusive anchors in the fall line below the last pitch had the chain removed and bolts with rap rings were in its place. Finally, the anchors on the far right corner below the last pitch have also been altered.

Every single new bolt was painted and had the name "Calderone" on it.
I'm trying very hard to convey my distaste for these actions with out profaning. Pictures are forthcoming and you can judge for yourselves.

Wow, Calderone seems to have an addiction. He also seems to do whatever he wants... However, atleast he doesn't hide the fact that it was him. Not many take the time to put their name on hangers, which I find weird (no offense James.) But he is willing to take the credit or the blame... which is better than people who hide from their actions. imo.

I hope Steve doesn't see this, he is getting married soon and should try to remain in a calm state of mind. :)

Tenesmus said:

"So I went up to GWI yesterday and found changes have been made to 5 of the anchors. The first set have had the chains removed"

Tony told me he removed the first set of chains, (top of pitch 1) painted them and put them back on the stations above.

So where are they?

I liked the new set of chains. They equalized the anchors and had a nice thick stainless steel rap ring.

I see similar parallel's between Chippy and George W Bush. Can anyone answer if this just runs in the Military? I mean, doing what ever you want regardless of the feelings of everyone else. To bad we cant elect a new "Climbing Leader" (zar) of the Wasatch as W will be booted in 2 years. We could always use regime change with our Self Proclaimed Climbing Zar cant we?

OK, I might be the new kid on the block. But I think that what has been done concerning the anchors, is plain wrong. I have been climbing the Great White Icicle for over 15 years and as far as I can remember the anchors on the platform have always been there. You guys that have been around for a while feel free to correct me if I am wrong. I was with tenesmus on Saturday and it was amazing to me how one person thinks that they are acting for the whole climbing community. Wrong... The platform anchors made it so you can get off the climb using one rope. Now with the anchors back on the wall you add about 50 feet to the rap. Hmmm. what was Tony thinking. I realize that the climb should be climbed up and over but you cannot always tell the condition of the upper pitches of ice until you are up on them. I have backed off several times because the ice was bad above the platform or bulge pitch.
I am a nice guy and normally try to give everyone a fair shake, but Tony you are doing your best to make me think ill of you. You are not the only climber in this area so act like part of the community. Your actions are definitely uncalled for!
What is the saying you can do 100s of good acts, but one evil act outweighs them all.

Sunny, you may be new to the MP game. But you are right on the money. Though this is not Chippys first pony ride on Evil acts.

Hey Steve, You are so right. I forgot about that:) I dont know you but congrats on the marrage.

durf

If he replaced that chain someone has since stolen it.

What's with the obsession with painted hardware? The new stuff looks like total crap anyway. What's with leaving bolt holes and replacing perfectly good bolts? What's with leaving one set of brand new intrusive anchors and then replacing the other new set of intrusive anchors (that was in perfect condition) with your own crappy looking stuff? What's with someone's good intentions just rubbing so many the wrong way?

I just don't get it.

Good intentions? Or is is personal obsession to be a self proclaimed Voice and Care taker of the SL climbing community. Im getting pretty damn sick of seeing shit like this go on. Even though I don't live in SL any longer, I still spend a great deal of time there. Its ignorance and selfishness if you ask me. Not good intentions!

Shayne Durfee

The first time I did the GWI (1975) there weren't any bolts at all. It was cool, you built all of your own belays, some of which were from screws. Not all of the belays were bomber. Even in those days it could occasionally get crowded on a weekend. Because of the old gear, climbers generally moved slower, so it took longer to get more parties up the climb. Today's climber could find a unique/sporty experience by not using any of the fixed belays.

That said, I think most of the fixed anchors are necessary, due to the heavy traffic. Personally, I've never been a big fan of painted anchors. Soon the paint chips off and they look like crap. Non painted gear will soon lose it's shine in the sun and does have similar mid-tone colors as the rock, so I don't think it's that big of a deal. On long runnouts you want to see the bolts anyway.

SunnyD said:

"The platform anchors made it so you can get off the climb using one rope."

So are they gone now?

Those anchors are useful because you can have 2 parties up there without getting in each others way. I'm assuming "the platform" is the belay at the base of the bulge. We always descend from here by hiking down to the North and making a short rap back to the start of the 2nd pitch.

Who knew a long running climbing soap like Utah's own 'As the Hilti turns' would ever be so popular? You guys should consider moving to San Diego and staking out a piece of the action - there are franchises to be built, clashes of titans to be fought, mega-mogul mergers to be negotiated...

The anchors at the base of the bulge (platform) the ones that were out on the deck, that people used to get down to the first pitch are pulled. There were bits and pieces of the old bolts (blue sleeves) still there but the bolts sling and rings are gone.
I like the idea of climbing the icicle without using the bolts I have always felt that the GWI was more alpine feeling then the other climbs in the area (Provo and Santaquin. That is what makes it so much fun to climb. It isn't nearly has hard as other climbs in the area but the aesthetics of it make it a fun romp.
Bsmoot when you said hike off did you mean from the base of the bulge(platform) or somewhere else? I have often wondered about that.

Yes, We do hike off from there (platform). Just slog down to the north. After 50 feet, start traversing west and down to some bolts. A 60' rap down a kind of chimney takes you to the start of the second pitch. This works well as it keep you away from icefall and climbers on the second pitch.

James Garrett wrote:And it would star none other than our very own "action hero"...Chippy Choperone. Would you be our contract negotiator with all the major players and network people there? We are, indeed, seeking a good negotiator...we don't seem to be getting anywhere on our own!

'Messier & Calderone' - Ok, it has a Vegas ring, it might play. I'll check my calendar and see if we can work a meet. No promises we can get them both to move to Red Rocks where they know how to deal with such matters, but we can at least try...

NNNOOOOOO Not red rocks. that means I will have to move, How about Jtree. Closer to LA, and I think they are looking for someone to stunt double stallone in Cliff hanger 2, Trouble in Jtree ( he seems to be redoing all him movies these days:)

Steve White wrote:Careful boys. Someone might pour acid all over your house because you don't agree with them.

Wow, in Utah? And I thought that shit happened mostly in LA. My sibling who still resides in LA poured acid all over some guys pretty sportscar at a nightclub, simply because the dude urinated on his Hummer the night before. Sheesh....come on boys!

P.S. Vegas isn't a safe place for shenanigans. People are welcomed with open arms, and wallets, but don't do them wrong, as you may end up disappearing. Too much open desert out this way, and the carp at Lake Mead are sick of popcorn, and always hungry; so I've heard.

Time for coffee, and more overtime ; )

Gigette Miller wrote:P.S. Vegas isn't a safe place for shenanigans. People are welcomed with open arms, and wallets, but don't do them wrong, as you may end up disappearing. Too much open desert out this way, and the carp at Lake Mead are sick of popcorn, and always hungry; so I've heard. Time for coffee, and more overtime ; )

This is why Vegas is the right place! They can be stars or carp bait, but the old locals won't put up with too many shennanigins very long before action is taken...

But my co-worker friends, and I protect, and help people who are a danger to themselves, and others in this city. We take care of them in Vegas hospitals, jails, and in prisons.

My advice.....Stay away from Vegas if you are a danger to self, and others, as our system is overwhelmed, and we are sick of working overtime, and seeing co-worker friends/comrades dropping like flies. I don't ever want to go out like that.

Time for more coffee.

G

So exactly where are the anchors on GWI now? I haven't climbed it in a few years but I'm coming to Utah this weekend and wanted to climb Friday night.

Kartch wrote:So exactly where are the anchors on GWI now? I haven't climbed it in a few years but I'm coming to Utah this weekend and wanted to climb Friday night.

Pretty much in the same spots as years past, with a couple of exceptions.

Chain is still missing on the 1st pitch (as of last night). Can still rap from the Metolius rap hangers, but, not as nice as the chain.

There's a newer two bolt, one ring anchor (Fixe anchor with a hanger above, with a chain to lower hanger with a single ring, all connected) about 40 or so feet past the first set of anchors (boulder on the right) on the right side (climber's right) kinda nicely positioned out of the main flow behind a little bit of rock.

At the base of the 2nd pitch, you can get a pin and/or a nut or small cam in the rock if you need an anchor for that pitch.

Third pitch, belay anchors to the left of the base of the bulge are still there, but, there's also a newer set to their left with rap rings (and a spare unused hole as well). Anchor(s) on top of the rock prow at the NW corner of the platform has been chopped, with the sleeve still in the hole and the blue band setting next to it. The anchors bsmoot mentioned above are still there for rappelling with a single rope from the bottom of the bulge pitch.

Only climbed the first two pitches last night before dark...so...I think tenesmus has the upper pitches covered in the first post in this thread.

Take care on the ice. I'll bet a third of my sticks were into open holes leading to running water and/or rock. The route has lost a ton of bulk in this heat wave. Very soupy and wet ice. My bet is quite a bit of the ice currently on the route is weak enough that it wouldn't hold a screw in a hard fall. Kind of that mushy, warm, wet ice that is fun, one hitter but diminishing return as far as being robust or strong.

Have fun...

Thanks Brian, maybe if the ice doesn't get any better I'll skip GWI and go strait to Barbacoa (they don't seem to make good burritos in MT).