Going to buy a rack, o what to get...

The trick to having fun in the Alpine is going light, so if I was going to build a rack this is what I might get.

- Set of RP's or similar brass nuts (not the real small ones)
- Double set of stoppers ( 4-12)
- Blue, Green, Yellow and Red Alien
- 1 set of C4 Camelots (.4 - 4), double .75 and 1.
( If I could sell all my other cams and buy C4's I would)
- 40 Ultralight biners ( Neutrinos are my favorites but the new OZ is lighter)
- 10 Mammut Dyneema shoulder slings
- Beal 8mm static tag line ( don't bother with the twins until you KNOW you love alpine, a nice 9 mill lead rope will do fine).

You may be tempted to go spend all your money, but then you will probably just end up bringing too much stuff and suffer and hate it.

Go light, take chances, have fun.

(edit: Aliens are actually one of the heaviest units available....but worth the extra weight to me).

Check out the Wild Country super light nuts. They have a single cable and their slim sizing lets them go where other nuts just can't. I have been using them for a while and am amazed at how versitile they are.

Know something we don't? The brassies are available through the Mountain Shop and DMM currently has no plans for the Alloy Offsets last I heard...

The trick to having fun in the Alpine is going light,

fast and light is the best. i put together a F&L mountaineering/backpacking set last spring.
my 15deg sleep bag/ biv, cookset, firstaid and my pack wights in at about 8.5 LBS, so light is my game.

Mike Morley wrote:...And yes, there is a story here...

Tell us the story-- that looks just like one that I still use...

Healyje wrote:***HB offset nuts 2 sets. (A new company will be selling these again soon) Know something we don't? The brassies are available through the Mountain Shop and DMM currently has no plans for the Alloy Offsets last I heard...

Mountain tools is advertising them on their site...

>> mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/nut…

Although they are saying Spring on the site, when you talk to MtnTools they aren't as confident, maybe Summer or may be not at all!

I've search UK climbing sites and there is talk of DMM making them, but searching DMM's site finds no reference. Hopefully it will happen but I wouldn't hold my breath...

Anyone have them for sale???

I still have a bunch of the Titons. I still use the widest one to protect Grand Giraffe's offwidth pitch!

Mike Morley wrote: It IS the one you use, Larry!!

Oh. That certainly explains the familiar appearance. I don't remember any death-defying stories though-- maybe my mind is going.

If you're interested in super-light biners, check out the Trango SuperFly wiregates. They're lighter (30g) than the BD Neutrinos and have a bigger gate opening.They are full-size biners, not the tiny micros that I find hard to handle.

Trango also makes a SuperFly ScrewLock which is the lightest locking biner of all (41g).

I'd give anything (well, almost) to have a full set of Campbell Saddlewedges, the most bomber nuts ever!
I've got a few of them left, but I really miss the complete set.

Some more info re hb offsets...

ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php…

DMM Wales

Once we were finished at Misty, we stepped across the aisle to meet with Steve at DMM to talk about their new gear coming up this season.

Although it didn’t come up right away, I finally got the lowdown on the story with the HB Offset fiasco. The short version is that DMM could not produce the stoppers without upping the price by almost 50% per unit. Thus, the former HB employee who actually manufactured the units for HB was given leave by DMM to go ahead and produce them on her own and try to make a go of it. The final end of the story comes when Julian (the employee), signed an exclusive contract with the Yosemite Mountain Shop for distribution of the HB Offset (Hugh still owns the rights). So, there it is- the only place in the world you can buy the HB Offsets is at the YMS…just in case you were wondering!

yosemitegifts.com/hboffsets…

Now, on with DMM’s really fun offerings this season! First up is a new standard in lightweight wiregates. DMM’s new wiregate called the Phantom will set the new record for ultra light when it comes out in March- barely registering on the scales at a scant 24g! It is tiny, like the Nano, but I bet folks are going to love it.

DMM’s trend of ultralight stuff continues with their other carabiners- the Shadow, a regular gate carabiner comes in four versions- straight, bent, screwgate, and autolocker. The straight and bent gate versions are only 43g and keylock, making them an attractive carabiner for those not into wiregates.

DMM’s final ultralight offering for next season is a tiny stainless steel belay device called the V-Twin that really looks cool (and was tough to photograph- so shiny!). This is a prototype- the production version will be a bit beefier and with slightly wider slots.

Yo Tea: your e-mail address still isn't working.

I donated that stuff to the AAC during the Pakistan relief effort, sorry -- what's that post topic again, History Lost?? Well, maybe just moved on to a better place.

Hi MikeTea,

My email also bounced when I tried to respond, so here is my response to your inquiring if I'd be willing to part with my Titons:
I can appreciate your asking, but I could never let go of my trusty old Titons.

I am pretty possessive with all of my antiquated gear.
I still have some Pecks, Clogs, and Troll nuts too (way pre-Chouinard hexes and stoppers)
I looked for an old Forrest Foxhead that I know I have somewhere, but I was unable to locate it. Dang.
I’ve still got an old shorty Forrest ice axe. Remember the old blue ones with the twisted wrought iron head?
Not to mention an old Chouinard laminated bamboo piolet - likely the most sought after ice tool in the world today. It's now on the wall of my spare bedroom.
I’ve also got an old Moljner ice hammer too, complete with assorted picks.
Now if you could come up with some old Campbell saddle wedges, perhaps we could arrange a swap for some of my smaller Titons.
I could never part with the biggies though.

Hb aluminum offsets.

They are the shizzle. So if different companys can make cams that practically look the same and function the same, why can't some of these same companys make their own offset aluminum nut?

Most nuts... abc, b.d., w.c. just to name a few are practically the same shape and size, is it really that hard for someone to recreate the hb offset? It is frustrating because they place so well, but no one wants to sell me any.

John J. Glime wrote:Hb aluminum offsets. They are the shizzle. So if different companys can make cams that practically look the same and function the same, why can't some of these same companys make their own offset aluminum nut? Most nuts... abc, b.d., w.c. just to name a few are practically the same shape and size, is it really that hard for someone to recreate the hb offset? It is frustrating because they place so well, but no one wants to sell me any.

Yes, I agree. Calling Malcolm Daly.... Are you out there...

Heck yes for Hexes! They can be really quick to place and clean, not to mention less expensive to replace if you need something to bail off of.
Similarly, I really like tricams and commonly use pink through size 3 (navy blue).
Also, I would consider exactly what you are really going for. If you climb or expect to climb really hard or mostly alpine routes then super light-weight may be the major concern. However, if alpine routes will only be occassional and you mostly want to do moderates and may want to do Vedawoo or Indian Creek type climbing as often as alpine, then I would suggest considering accumulating a larger and more redundant rack with bigger pieces and consisting of some used gear.
For instance, pre-C4 camalots are slightly heavier, but they also seem more bomber and are easy to come by inexpensively. If you aren't climbing really steep rock or hiking for hours the weight may not make a big difference. Of course, some people will never buy used gear and that is understandable.

Trango Superflys and BD Neutrinos are identicaly sized(edit: SF have a 1/4" longer spine), and while the superflys are lighter they have a smaller radius of curvature and are not anodized.

I will sell you a almost new set of forged friends 2.5 - 4, if you are interested send me an email.

I definitely agree with only getting a basic rack (single set nuts, single set cams blue TCU to #3 Camelot, pink tri-cam, slings, bieners, etc.) at first and then adding as needed. This will get you up many classics in CO, plus that way you wont end up paying for redundant stuff you may not use. Also as far as alpine rock goes don't underestimate the seriousness of this. Be very comfortable bailing and climbing in less than ideal conditions (lose rock, lightning, rain, hail), things go wrong. Maybe do some longer routes in Eldo and Lumpy then move to very easy stuff in the Park. Most of all have fun and be willing to climb way below your limit in the beginning.

You can't beat the Gearexpress.com deal of Camalots .5, .75, 1, and 2 for $209 to build a foundation for your rack.. I got that + the deal for 8 Rock Empire Durangos (fingertips through Camalot #3) to start my rack, then I doubled up the small end with Durangos..

If I had do it again, I'd spend the extra cash to get all Aliens + Camalots..It may run you $250+ dollars more for a double rack through #2, but it's probably worth it. The extra range on both Camalots and Aliens + the flexibility on the Aliens for straight-in placements is nice to have..

(this is for trad only, have no idea about alpine, all I've done in alpine is jug fixed ropes)