Rescuers on Mission to respond for 3 man team missing on Mt Hood.

Conditions on the mountain are being reported as deadly. Best wishes to all involved in what is considered to be a serious situation with one of the climbers confirmed in need of aid.

I'm a reporter for the Oregonian newspaper covering the SAR operations on Mt. Hood.
Does anyone know the climbers who are missing -
Kelly James and Brian Hall of Dallas, TX, and Jerry "Nikko" Cooke, 36, of Brooklyn?
Thanks,
Matt

Matt, I can appreciate your candor in relaying information to the public. But, climbers on technical terrain don't get lost.

They become over-due, missing, and/or are in need of aid.

But to answer your question: no, I don't.

Just a little update further in the timeline:

"The seven three-member rescue teams searching for the men encountered wind gusts of 80 mph and blowing snow, Deputy Marc Smith said. They didn't get higher than 8,500 feet. The teams planned to try again on Tuesday, Smith said."

NOAA/NWS has hazardous weather predicted until Tuesday 10AM for portions of NW Oregon.

Further clarification from the Sheriffs Dept:

"We had people in snowmobiles at lower land levels during the night; we never ended the search," said Hood River Sheriff's Deputy Pete Hughes on Tuesday. "What was called off was the mountain climbing efforts."

Thanks for the reply and clarification, Mark.

No Problem.

It looks like today & tommorrow as being the best opportunity to conduct a mission. The NWS is predicting a more severe storm:

".DAYS TWO THROUGH SEVEN...WEDNESDAY THROUGH MONDAY
ANOTHER PACIFIC STORM THURSDAY NIGHT MAY BRING THE STRONGEST WINDS
SO FAR THIS SEASON."

Also Statement from Karen James, wife of Kelly James:

"I would like to express a heartfelt thank you to the rescue workers who are trying so hard to locate Kelly, Brian and Nikko. Also, thank you to the many friends and members of the public who are concerned about their fate. Obviously, this is a very, very trying time for all of us. I do take some comfort in the fact that Kelly is a very experienced and very safe mountain and ice climber and hope that he can be rescued as soon as possible."

The 1pm briefing today (12/12/06):

Rescue operation for Kelly has not yet located his position.
SAR for Brian & Jerry has not yet located their whereabouts.
They were experienced & prepared for an alpine-style ascent of their intended route.

The climbing team was reported to have summitted from the North, then had to leave Kelly to get aid while on descent; based on 4 minute call from Kelly to his family. It was uncertain what aid was needed.

SAR may be able to get a helicopter in the air at the close of the briefing -- crosswinds were reported at 50mph on the mountain; but may have died down.

5 SAR climbing teams of 3 persons each will be active on various routes on the mountain until a 2:30pm PST turnaround time. No report on their tactical positions regarding routes & elevations. 1 summit SAR team is in reserve (at a lower camp). Avalanche conditions are prevalent.

The SAR climbing teams are volunteer MRA accredited & military air support Air Force 304th Pararescue Squadron & Oregon National Guard.

I can only offer best wishes that all parties return safely.

8:30am AP filing (12/13/06):

The first search team was to set out at 7 a.m., about an hour before full light, said Pete Hughes of the Hood River County Sheriff's Department. But, Hughes said Wednesday morning, the searchers would stay well below the summit at 11,239 feet. "We will stay at the 6,000-foot level and the tree lines," he said. "We also have one new agency to help in the search," the Nordic Ski Patrol, which does cross-country trails, he said.

Crews may get some help from heat-seeking unmanned aircraft provided by a Colorado company and pinpoint cell phone detection equipment from another high-tech company, Hughes said. But even if those tools locate the missing climbers, bad weather may prevent crews from climbing high enough to rescue them, Hughes said. "But if anybody is above the 7,000-foot range, we're not going to be able to get to them," Hughes said. "And we're probably not going to be able to get to them by Thursday either, unless there happens to be a break in the weather."

From NOAA/NWS:

Hazardous Weather Outlook:
.DAYS TWO THROUGH SEVEN...THURSDAY THROUGH TUESDAY A POTENT PACIFIC STORM MAY BRING STRONG WINDS INTO THE INLAND AREAS OF WESTERN OREGON LATE THURSDAY AFTERNOON AND THURSDAY NIGHT. AS THE SYSTEM BEGINS TO DEVELOP TODAY AND TONIGHT A BETTER ASSESSMENT OF THE POTENTIAL OF THIS STORM WILL BE MADE.

Avalanche Warning Issued:
WASHINGTON CASCADES AND CASCADE PASSES NEAR AND WEST OF THE CREST SOUTH OF MT RAINIER, MT HOOD AREA - Considerable avalanche danger above 5 to 6000 feet and moderate below slightly decreasing Tuesday afternoon and evening. Danger significantly increasing Tuesday night, becoming high above 6000 feet and considerable below Wednesday morning. Further slightly increasing danger expected Wednesday afternoon and night, becoming locally high on lee lopes above 5 to 6000 feet and considerable elsewhere.

AP Updates (Dec 14, 2006 at 7:13 AM PST By JOSEPH B. FRAZIER)

Eighteen inches of new snow fell in the higher elevations through Wednesday night and into Thursday morning, said Hood River County Sheriff's Deputy Brain Rockett. "They do not expect the new storm until this afternoon," Rockett said. "That means the SnoCat can go up between 6 a.m and 7 a.m."

Searchers on Wednesday said they were kept to about 6,200 feet on the 11,239-foot peak where one of the three was last reported to be in a snow cave near the summit. There has been no sign of the other two, who left the cave Saturday, apparently to go for help.

"We have hit a brick wall at 8,500 feet," Hood River County Sheriff Joe Wampler said at the end of Wednesday's search.

Plans Thursday calls for two staging camps on the north and south sides of the mountain so teams could head to the summit quickly if the weather breaks.

The elements have kept modern technology from doing much better.

A Nevada Air National Guard C-130 with heat-sensing devices flew over the mountain on Wednesday but had to turn back because the turbulence, It is expected back on Thursday.

Two Army Chinook helicopters are due from Fort Lewis, Wash, although high winds have kept a military helicopter already there grounded for all but a brief time.

Aracar, a high-tech company from Morrison, Colo., hoped to send up at least three drones, one-pound battery-operated plastic propeller planes, but could not because of winds, said John Blitch, head of the nonprofit.

They are equipped with heat-sensitive devices and fly 300 feet to 500 feet above the surface, controlled by a laptop and capable of detecting heat sources that could come from the climbers. He said he hopes for a window on Thursday.

Iomax of Denver, described as a wireless and data network security company, hopes to use signals gear to better pinpoint James' location. Iomax says it can trace even the faintest cell phone signal and has developed technology often used in crime detection.

Despite all that, weather predictions indicate searchers won't be able to get near where James is thought to be until the weekend at the earliest.

Winds near the summit are likely to surpass 100 mph Thursday before easing, then daytime temperatures above 10,000 feet are to go below zero.

News Conference 9:00am PST (12/14/06):

Poor weather is major factor in keeping rescue resources at bay.

Unconfirmed report Kelly turned his phone on 10:55pm PST Tuesday eve (12/12/06).

At 6,000 ft Camp - 304th, Crag Rats are staged. Corvallis is moving down & into reserve. PMR is moving up into replacement position. Yesterday teams able to reach 6,500 ft; Tuesday teams able to get 8,500 - 9,000. If weather breaks, climbing teams will be able to reach summit positions in a 4-6 hr push -- pending avalanche conditions. All air support & air-recon equipment is staged but can't be utilized due to weather.

Kelly proposed marriage to Karen on Mt Ranier.

Nobody is giving up.

http://www.cnn.com/2006/US/12/14/missing.climbers.ap/index.html

Weather forecasts from NOAA/NWS (12/14/06 1600PST approx.):

Major storm will be tonight through Fri Morning. Looks like weather should break Fri afternoon into Saturday & possibly holding thru weekend.

Pending avalanche danger & local conditions higher on the mountain, these upcoming days are looking to give the ground crews the best opportunity to summit.

(NWS update 12/14/06 21:30 PST approx.): Looking like weather won't let up until later Friday. Probably Sat. would be the day to assess teams to make summit attempts.

All of us can only hope for the best possible outcome.

News Conference 10:00am PST (12/15/06):

Note left by climbers of intended climb confirmed plan, gear, & experience on similar terrain (Ranier, Denali, & unspecified S. America). Reports of cell phone switching on were unconfirmed.

Rescue crews are on standby & reconstitution; getting ready for summit push expected on 12/16/06 for all routes that will allow safe passage. Reserve crews are also in place should weather break earlier than expected.

C-130 Hercules from 152nd Airlift Wing - Reno, NV will be flying to recon; I believe this should be similar/same craft as those used in hurricane recon (NOAA uses P3s but also had incorporated C-130s .pdf info ); member of 304th will be on plane to liason field info. (Drones are up but no report of elevations & heat signature indications -- this section of the briefing wasn't all that clear to me as to how this operation works & I may be in error.)

If Alex Lowe were still alive all they would have to do is drop him as close as they could and he would come walking out of there with people over his shoulders if he had to.

It would be awesome if it all turns out good tomorrow.

From NOAA/NWS (12/15/06 16:30 PST approx. -- temps & winds probably local to lower elevations):

Snow Advisory in effect until 10 pm PST Today

This Afternoon: Mostly cloudy. High 16.

Tonight: Partly cloudy. Chance of snow showers in the evening. Probability of measurable precipitation 50 percent. West wind 29 mph. Low -8.

Saturday: Partly cloudy. Southwest wind 13 mph. High 12.
Saturday Night: Mostly cloudy. Slight chance of snow showers. Probability of measurable precipitation 20 percent. Southwest wind 6 mph. Low -5.

Sunday: Partly cloudy. Slight chance of snow showers. Probability of measurable precipitation 20 percent. Northwest wind 9 mph. High 10.
Sunday Night: Partly cloudy. Low -5.

Monday: Partly cloudy. High 17.

I will be out in the high country this weekend; I don't know if I will have the heart to come in & post anymore on this. This situation this past week just hits too close to home.

Just wanted to wish everyone good luck & come back safe.

You see Floyd is a simple guy from the mid-west, and until these fancy folks from OutdoorPlaces.Com moved in next door, I never heard of this guy, Alex Lowe.

Alex Lowe is a real hero. His close friends called him, �the mutant,� because of his incredible strength. Alex was known to go to the gym and work out for five or six hours until he couldn�t lift the weights any more. His ability to climb and natural talent is completely unparalleled. He�s the Michael Jordan of climbing.

One time Alex was pressed into service to do a mountain rescue on Denali National Park�s Mount McKinley. Taken up in a special military helicopter in horrible conditions to over 19,000 feet Alex and a close friend scaled down a 400-foot ice wall to the trapped and dying climbers. One injured climber needed immediate evacuation, but bringing him up the wall was impossible, except for Alex. Alex's friends ponder how they could possibly get the injured man out in enough time, Alex put the crippled climber over his back, and at 18,600 feet up proceeded to carry him up the mountain to the waiting helicopter. A picture of Alex crossing the snow with the dying hiker chronicles this incredible and selfless act. Both men survived their ordeal. Now that is a hero of superhuman strength and character.

I found this blurb on the internet about Alex's rescue on McKinley which was actually much more insane than depicted here. It was a complete white out and they had to hike quite a ways to get to the injured climbers.

As someone who has also lost their beloved brother to a climbing accident this year (See "Fatality at Tahquitz Rock"), I would like to extend my sincere condolences to Ben and Frank James, both brothers of Kelly James, and assure them of our whole family's prayers for their family as they begin to walk through this valley. May you experience the comfort, peace and hope that only Jesus Christ can give you through these dark hours and in the coming days. God bless you. -Your Sister in Christ

I tried to post a link to Frank James' site ( hinessight.blogs.com) on the thread "Religious Tolerance or Lack Therof..." but it seems those 21 pages have been locked by the administrators. Interestingly enough, it seems Frank James is experiencing criticism for vocalizing that his faith will get him through this tragedy: ( hinessight.blogs.com/hiness…).

Dear Friends.

As you are most already aware, Kelly was located deceased this past weekend. Certainly our thoughts & condolence go to their family. As the climbers are characterized by their families as men of faith, I respect their families' wishes to maintain privacy about their beliefs (of which faith the families have not discussed with anyone) and remembrance of 3 climbers of tremendous American character.

There have been certain points during this entire mission that I would say the media have acted entirely off-base; some acts were unintentional & some just plain mean. Issuing stories about the climbers without performing due-diligence on their experience & integrity as alpine climbers was the start of a mis-characterization of them and their right to freedom of expression in this country. As most "normal people" don't fathom what alpinism is, I am understanding toward this ignorance, and I (as well as many others) volunteer a great deal of time instructing safe techniques and enjoyable outdoor recreation for our respective states.

But I have to say; trying to contact family members at midnight & 3 in the morning to try and get a story is just reprehensible & despicable.

I know some in the media read these blogs and I would hope that lessons can be learned from the manner in which this SAR mission was reported. I guess one thing I learned was the way mainstream media changes the context of issues that were reported from the family & rescue personnel as they discussed them on-site. But, I do know there are some in media that do a tremendous job because they follow due diligence to verify information before reporting & such information is an asset to those that go out in the field of technical alpinism & climbing.

News Conference 2:00pm PST (12/18/06):

The Y shape in the snow was an anchor. (The PR sergeant with Hood County Sheriffs Office mis-reported it as a rescue sign; he should have just said he didn't know what it was.)

2 Blackhawks are searching for signs of the other climbers by using rotor wash in the area called the Gullies.

SAR for Kelly is in recovery and should have him to family members by this evening. The recovery teams are looking at signs left by the other two climbers. They are still classified as missing. Some SAR assets will be stood down to off-site standby until further sign of the 2 climbers, Brian Hall and Jerry "Nikko" Cooke, can be located; they are believed to be on the North side of the mountain. Avalanche danger in the Gullies is high and ground teams can't be sent into certain areas due to this danger.

It is believed the route they were climbing is near the area called the Cooper Spur.

Possibly, a variant thereof with technical ice. As Chris reported on the News blog: The North Face

As of today, this mission is now a recovery; all SAR assets & ground rescue personnel have been stood down & are back safe.

Kelly James's autopsy concludes hypothermia as a cause of death which occured several days prior to his recovery. Brian Hall and Jerry "Nikko" Cooke have not been located.

Thank you to all those who put their butts on the line to try and assist those climbers who were in need of aid.
As heartbreaking as this situation was, you all give hope.

Recovery operations will be underway by MRA accredited teams in the near future:

Mount Hood Mysteries - Hood River News

About 100 searchers are expected to scout along the tree line — the 6,000-7,500 foot elevation — on Saturday and Sunday, July 21 and 22.

Two higher elevation searches are planned later this summer when avalanche danger has lessened. The first event will be Saturday and Sunday, Aug. 18 and 19, and the second on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, Sept. 7-9.