Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Falls - Condition Report?

Has anyone been up to Lincoln yet? Any information on current conditions would be much appreciated.

Along this line, is there a forum on this site or anywhere else that lists ice conditions?

Here's the link to the ice conditions forum. It is also avaiable from the colorado home page.

mountainproject.com/scripts…;mode=&daysold=90&locationId=105708956&filter=COND

No reports that I could find on Lincoln Falls...anyone know what the status is up there?

Heard that the main flow is in and the upper steeper stuff is forming...

Unfortunately, finding ice conditions in the new MountainProject.com format is a bit more difficult than in the old climbingboulder.com format. Probably, the easiest is to look on the home page & click on conditions located on the right side of the page. There is quite a bit of "rock noise" posts put into conditions that dilute the ice reports. The ice conditions forum is something using a forum-like format which doesn't quite do what the cb.com did, but if someone starts a forum thread, it can provide info/discussions. Perhaps, we could split the conditions report option into rock vs ice to help?

BTW, it's the right time of year & weather conditions for Lincoln to be forming up. It's just not likely to be all filled in.

My sources say give it a few more weeks. Kind of thin in places, apparantly. Besides, with Sundays like we had last weekend, ice is the last thing I am wanting to climb.

Maybe the best thing for conditions would be to have a section for each area/climb and have specific reports at their respective information pages. It is kind of set up that way now but I think people are either intimidated to write reports or just don't think there is value there. If there were specific areas or sections of each page that were broken into date, condition, other comments pperhaps more people would post what they have experienced. I think something like this would add a lot more value to the site.

Jeff, interesting thoughts. Having spoken with some of the folks who might benefit the rest of us ice aficienados, some are less inclined to cough up ice info due to fears of overcrowding, feeling folks should earn it by checking ice out in person, concerns for a limited resource, not wanting folks to bash the heck out of early season ice to limit solid formation of ice for later in the season. They often prefer word of mouth. I can respect that. It's a challenging issue, but for folks like me with a job, a wife, kids, getting out there & finding something to climb is much preferred to being skunked. The potential for the ice conditions function of this website is terrific for average folks like me. By the way, from a LONG distance 10/15/6, AMU & NT appeared to be starting to form but looked thin. Typically, these come in mid-Nov-ish. Didn't check it out close enough to warrant a post...but since we're on the subject....

I would have to agree with Leo on this one. While it is convenient to go onto a web site from the comfort of our home to know whether or not ice is in, doesn't it take some of the adventure out of the whole climbing experience. It's bad enough that there are ice guide books out there that list the vast majority of ice climbs. What about word of mouth, or getting on the road and hiking in to find out whether or not conditions are good. If you get skunked you still get the blood flowing!

I'm sorry to say that all ice routes will be closed this year.. Best you all stay home and climb in the gym.

(unless I need a belay)
Cheers,

Thanks Rob, that was just what I was looking for...can I now expect a parking lot there this weekend or what? Leo I see your point although I've also seen signs on the top of ice climbs that say "go find your own flow to tap and stay off of mine." Or things to that effect... Generally when I run into Ice Climbers climbing they are much nicer and more helpful than rock climbers rock climbing. Climbing definitely takes on a territorial aspect when running into other parties. It's a pain to get stuck behind someone, it oftenly makes things much more dangerous, takes more time, you might even get shit on (literally)from time to time. It is true that more traffic on ice has a more serious impact on a climb than a lot of traffic on rock. I've heard stories of ice climbers freaking out about climbing a route too early in the season or a beginner hacking too much but why is it that everytime I run into other parties ice climbing they are friendly, helpful, sharing, nice, and happy where as most rock climbers I run into are pissed that you just imposed upon them, more critical, talk shit, and think they are entitled? Hundreds of parties could climb the same rock and it will be exactly the same when the day is over yet people are still pissed that someone else is climbing "their spot".

I see your point when it comes to hiking in and checking things out yourself, it's more fun that way and more of an adventure. I've always liked walking up to a rock or flow and pointing at something that you have no idea what it is and saying I think I can climb that. When you get to the top there is a much different feeling than that of the climb that you scoped in the book, know the exact rating and knew that you would either fly up it, encounter some challenges, or be way outside of your abilities. Climbing in general has become commercialized in a lot of ways and one could argue that it has lost it's spirit because of sites like this and the amount of beta available before climbing the route. If you read the exact way to position yourself and where the holds are through the crux moves of a certain climb you have a huge advantage and the climb itself becomes much easier. I suppose my point is, if your going to allow people to explain exactly how to do a crux move or exactly how to stay on route what is the difference with posting ice conditions? I'm not trying to say that I wouldn't prefer people having to do the work to reap the benefits I'm just asking what exactly is the difference between crux beta, route finding info, dangerous loose rock to thin dangerous ice versus in thin and perfect climbing?

Jeff Barnow wrote:can I now expect a parking lot there this weekend or what?

Possibly not - Breck: temps 0-12, not too bad, but the wind expected s/b up to 50-55mph gusting, with snow, mostly Fri Afternoon & eve up to a foot & Sat 4-6 inches; maybe a foot to a foot and a half overall for the storm. Typical CO, snows then blows.

Probably advise not taking US 285, ski season is not yet swinging, so I70 s/b cool which is probably your line anyways coming from Boulder.

Is it fall yet, or did we just go straight to winter?

Thanks Mark, good advice on 285...although it seems these days summer or winter some jackass will kill the flow on I-70 no matter what.

I was benighted on Long's three weekends ago and there was just enough snow to make a torso long snow cave. I'd say around 5AM it was close to if not below zero. Sure doesn't seem like spring or fall stick around for very long anymore.

lbishop wrote:I would have to agree with Leo on this one. While it is convenient to go onto a web site from the comfort of our home to know whether or not ice is in, doesn't it take some of the adventure out of the whole climbing experience. It's bad enough that there are ice guide books out there that list the vast majority of ice climbs. What about word of mouth, or getting on the road and hiking in to find out whether or not conditions are good. If you get skunked you still get the blood flowing!

If I wasn't a single parent and had more free time, I would agree. But having one free day per week to actually get outside for a full day, I'd rather not get skunked and waste the day hiking out to something that isn't there. Just because someone tells you the conditions of the route doesn't mean that all adventure is lost. Hell, I can make an adventure out of just about any route. hehe