Putting your second on static

I'm going to do some week long back country alpine climbing in a couple weeks and I am trying to shed some pounds. We will be climbing in a team of three and I was thinking of bringing my 8mm static line to belay one of the seconds. I figure as long as I keep the rope away from sharp edges and keep the slack out this should be fine, but I wanted to see if anyone has an opinion to the contrary.

Thanks,
Lee Jensen

BAD IDEA. Lee, go find some place to hang your static rope (like off the first bolt of a sport climb). Don't go very high, but load it dynamically with about 6 inches of slack in the system. Let your potential second watch you do this so he/she knows what they are in for if they decide to second on your rope.

GOOD IDEA. Go invest in a (dynamic) 8.5 mm half-rope.

BETTER IDEA. Get two.

8 mm static is a bad idea for anything but using as a second rope for double rope raps. Besides there are plenty of 9mm x 60m dry dynamic single ropes (this seems to be the standard for light and fast alpine) out there for about the same price, and they're better for alpine climbing, esp. since a rope can lose significant amounts of strength when wet.

Lee, aside from the static property of the rope. The diameter of 8mm could also be a problem if using a Reverso to simul-belay 2 seconding climbers. Petzl is recommending a minimum diameter of 8.5mm, and both strands are to be identical.

The BD Guide is not indicating a problem at the 8mm size, though.

Anyway, there's discussion in some of the other posts on this site -- I believe in the Gear section (and on the respective manufacturer's sites also); didn't know if it was an issue you had thought of or needed to know. But it may help you.

Very bad idea, just use a half rope, like an 8.5 mm......

J~

I definitely understand that a dynamic half rope would be a better thing to take along, but ... I don't own one. It sounds like the major concern is the force that a short (max 1 to 2 foot) fall might put on a second. I can understand that. I guess I had better take Bobby's advice and experiment on myself before I force my second to do it.

I am using the BD Guide XP and so an 8mm cord shouldn't be a problem there.

So drop $150 on a double rope, or lug an extra 4 lbs and carry my 10.2mm single.

Thanks everyone for your replies.

Lee Jensen

There are times when you can use a static line to belay a climber. Most static lines aren't truly static, they have 3-5% elongation. In fact, most climbing gyms use static lines in their slingshot TR set-ups due to the fact that static ropes are more durable than dynamic lines. However, for alpine climbing there are simply too many objective hazards than can cause severe loading of a second's line. Even if the leader were keeping the line tight, freak accidents, such as a crevasse opening up under a climber, can happen.

Lee, I have double ropes you can borrow. Email me.

I went and bought a 60m Beal 8.1 Ice Line. Brought up two seconds using the BD XP Guide. My other line was a Bluewater 9.7 Lightening Pro. They both feed through the Guide easily. Locked off perfectly with the slightest tension. I was very happy to drop the extra weight after hiking 50 miles.

Thanks again for the offer Bobby. That was the true spirit of climbing brotherhood.

No problem. I hope to hear about your trip!

I looked at Fairview several times and thought about you while I was there. It looked amazing. I will have to put that on my list for a future trip.

Pictures and trip report found at:
the-jensens.org/lee/2006_09…

Great photos Lee. Thanks.