Guide book for Devil's Tower

I am getting ready to head over to Devil's Tower, and I need (want) the best guidebook. I have heard there is not (yet) a comprehensive guide. Is that true? I have heard one is coming out soon. If that is true, does anyone know when and who is publishing it? For now what is the best guide to the area. I may also climb in the Black Hills one day. If the best guide is an online guide, what is that? And finally, what are the don't miss routes over there. I lead comfortably at 5.10 trad, and 5.11 sport. But who knows what I will climb when I am there. Thanks in advance.

Nathan Fisher

Nathan, how about just trusting your eyes or starting to learn to? Maybe skip the guide, start walking around the tower, spot something that looks interesting, and just try to climb it.

I just picked up the brand new guide. It's sweet! Full color, great descriptions etc. I got it at Wild Iris Climbing in Lander, but I'm sure it is elsewhere.

Have fun, and stay cool... it's going to be HOT out there....

Some nice options, many of the first pitches are worthy adventures by themselves, particularly at the 5.10 grade... Most of the routes end short of the summit - then double raps.

• New Wave to Assembly Line
• First and/or second pitch of Carol's Crack. First pitch is sweet 5.10a, second is 5.11 I think.
• First and/or second and third pitches of Tugley Wood. First pitch is 5.10a fingers, second gets BIG at 5.10
• Walt Bailey (will be HOT, south facing), 5.9. Can scramble to the summit from there.
• El Matador..... of course
• First pitch of McCarthy's West Face (5.9/5.10a?)

Check out "Devils Tower Climbing" by Rachael Lynn and Zach Orenczak (published by Extreme Angles Publishing). It is really well done, all color and what I hope to be wear-resistant type pages. I'd compare it to the new Indian Creek guide in style and quality.

I was just up there a month or so ago and would also recommend New Wave to Assembly Line. Topping out on Assembly Line is a bit harrowing but still interesting climbing. Otherwise check out Soler (unfortunately a bit sunny now) and get up really early to do the Durrance route. There is a definite reason why EVERYONE and their mother does that route! Really fun climbng.

Healyje wrote:Nathan, how about just trusting your eyes or starting to learn to? Maybe skip the guide, start walking around the tower, spot something that looks interesting, and just try to climb it.

Whatever. It's cool that you want to not use the guide. I do trust my eyes, and have been climbing whatever looks good for a while... that wasn't my question. It was a straightforward question. What guides are good? What routes are classic? Some people like to go off on their own and climb what seems good. I'll save that mentality for when I want to climb something unclimbed. But when I and probably most people go to an area loaded with already documented routes, that they are visiting for a short period of time, they probably want to know what they are climbing. That way they can pack in as many good routes in as short time as possible.

Andy, thanks. IME here has that book, and it looks good. Appreciate the list of to do climbs as well. El Matador had already been chosen by me as the obvious great line. Others look great. The question now is, "How much climbing can I get in, in a 3-day stretch?"