Storm King Peak, North Face

Anyone done it? Beta you could offer? Word is that there's a 1500 foot 5.7 on the North Face. True?

I've not found anything here, nor on SummitPost.org, nor at any of the usual suspects.

Must escape the Phoenix heat, and Storm King sounds like a fine way to do it.

My thanks,

-- Jeff

I climbed some peaks around (peak 9) there a couple of years ago and camped just below storm king. The information that we had was an old write up from Bob Bliss that we got from the denver library. The write up was really vague and said that there is an 18-pitch 5.7 climb. The north face of storm king is really vertical and looks about like the Diamond when you are below it. Anyway, you probably won't find anything else in the way of climbing info. I can tell you that the peaks around there are EXTREMELY loose, more so than anything I have ever done; storm king looked to be no exception. But the scenery etc.. is phenomenal. Also, the Wham ridge is not too far from there either and it is supposed to be really nice too.

Danny:

Thanks for the input. I've seen on SummitPost.org that Gerry Roach's "13'ers" guidebook has more info, but sadly that book is rare in Phoenix. I think perhaps I'll have to suck it up and buy it on the web somewhere. Wham Ridge is on the "To Do" list as well.

Last question: Water in the area? Or did you pack it in?

Anyway, thanks again.

-- Jeff

I too have looked up information on storm king peak I read some really not fun sounding vague route description, involving wet dirty pitches, maybe some loose rock and 4th class nonsense. I thought the face looked admirable though, and I figure there has to be a better way. I would be concerned with rock quality. you will have to do a write up after you go so we will know what is up.

Jason Kaplan wrote:I too have looked up information on storm king peak I read some really not fun sounding vague route description, involving wet dirty pitches, maybe some loose rock and 4th class nonsense.

Care to tell me where you got this? I'd really appreciate it.

And I'll be sure to do a write up when I'm done, if it happens (August in the San Juans, after all...weather might not cooperate.)

Roach's Colorado's Thirteeners is a very fine book, but does not cover Storm King Peak. There is scant information on its north face in the readily accessible literature. Bueler, in Roof of the Rockies, p. 196, says that Bob Bliss and Don Jones climbed the north face in August 1974. The route is also mentioned in Ormes and Jacobs's Colorado Mountains, where it is said to consist of 15 pitches.

brenta may have hit it on the dot, however I am not sure because the information I recieved was photocopied from my boss. I could ask him if your really interested although it will have to wait till monday.

yea I had that issue before I went and actually saw the peak for myself, if I remember correctly It looked like a pretty impressive face in the mag however it looked somewhat broken and chossy. definitely seldom traveled I would think or else everyone is just quiet.

Jeff,

There is a brief description of the North Face route in Climbing Colorado's San Juan Mountains. Published by Falcon Guides.

I would be happy to fax or e-mail it to you. Contact me from my people page.

Jeff,

Water is no problem. There are several lakes and streams. I just brought a filter.

It's the most wonderful time of the year... 

Anyone with the attention span to hike into Stormy Gulch should be able to suffer through this trip report... Presented with apologies for the attempt at lyrical prose. 

http://aperfectweakness.com/2017/08/21/storm-king-north-face-direct/

PM me if you want beta for the 5.10 headwall finish.