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Jay Perry
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Jul 5, 2006
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Chattanooga, TN
· Joined Jul 2006
· Points: 15
So my dad and I were going to be passing through Boulder near the end of the month and were hoping to climb the 3rd Flatiron. Unfortuantely though it'll still be closed for falcons so is there another climb of similar quality/ease of difficulty somewhere around. Thanks. Jay
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Buff Johnson
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Jul 5, 2006
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2005
· Points: 1,145
Near NCAR: East Face of Seal Rock, Hillbilly Rock in Skunk Canyon area -- also can do Ridge One called Stairway to Heaven. Near Chautauqua: Fandango on First Flatiron (though start can be hard to find if not familiar with the approach) maybe also Bakers Way then continue up the Ridge called North Arete, or can do Zig Zag at 5.7 - not sustained (which is where you may end up if looking for Fandango, Bakers Way), The Direct Route is a classic 5.6R (in my opinion). All of these should be outside of the raptor closure areas, but check the TH signage. If anyone else can chime-in to verify, cool.
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Joel Larner
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Jul 6, 2006
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Jul 2004
· Points: 161
First Flatiron Direct Route. It is a 5.6 (you requested 5.4 to 5.5) but in reality, only the first pitch is 5.6, the rest go easier. It is a long route so you need a good bit of time. The common description calls it 10 pitches, although we have done it in as few as 7 with a 60m rope. The first pitch is runout, so the lead needs to be comfortable on runout 5.6 slab. After that the pro is there but not plentiful in sections. Start this one early both to beat weather and crowds.
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Jerome Stiller
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Jul 6, 2006
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Golden CO
· Joined May 2005
· Points: 20
If you're coming thru at the very end of July you may be able to climb the 3rd. The raptor nesting closures are sometimes lifted before August 1 - it depends on the birds themselves. Check back here or on the Access Fund site or on Boulder COunty Parks site for most current info. good luck, have fun & play safe
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Andy Leach
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Jul 6, 2006
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Denver, CO
· Joined Jun 2005
· Points: 95
The 5th and 4th Flatirons also have several moderate multi-pitch routes. We did the whole 4th Flatiron in 9 pitches that probably never exceded 5.4 (though they were a bit runout). 4 pitches of 5.4 got us to the top of the 5th Flatiron.
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Rob "Roberto" Dowse
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Jul 6, 2006
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Toronto ON
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 10
Seal Rock, approached from NCAR (or whatever their name is now)is a great fun 5.4 with an awesome rappel
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Lee Smith
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Jul 6, 2006
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2003
· Points: 1,545
I also would vote for Seal Rock East Face North side as a great 5.4 with some runout. The last pitch up the fun crack is hard to beat even in the Flatirons. The rappel is fearsomely awesome.
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Jim Amidon
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Jul 7, 2006
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2001
· Points: 840
1st Flatiron, MEGA classic, much better than the 3rd, 1000' of climbing, beautiful setting, one rappel off the back, good views, great rock..... Easy approach and descent......
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Jim Matt
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Jul 7, 2006
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Cincinnati, OH
· Joined Sep 2003
· Points: 255
Add me to the growing list of people to recommend the First. The first pitch is runout, 5.6, (you can place a cam or two above the second real bolt before traversing over to the tree, if it makes you feel more comfortable) the rest of the pitches are easier. You have to be a bit creative to find gear, but it is there. The slot pitch to the summit ridge is my favorite!
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