New slab routes at Skinner Mountain

I was climbing at Skinner this past Sunday for the first time and noticed that there are at least 7 bolted lines on the main slab while Hubbel's book only lists 3. I know his book doesn't have EVERYTHING but obviously there are a few relatively new routes there. I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on this and give me some information as to what they are.

Thanks.

-Mack

Well, Chris, I don't know what they are/named/rated. I led 4 of them from the easy right to most difficult left. I gather the eyebolt line is the Central Corner route. Overall, I thought the routes were fun, and bolted from good stances with modern bolts & anchors. Some of the bolts are camouflaged so well they surprise you as happen upon them.

However, I thought a fall from any of the crux sections would result in hitting something; I guess that's just what the rock offers, I don't know any better way to protect those slab climbs. But you may have already gathered this from your own experiences. I almost got bagged on one, but went back down and took a yellow alien to protect a finger flake seam to "escape" a mantle section I didn't want to take a fall on.

Very different type of climbing than most splat slabs.

I did also lead a trad line splitting left from Wally World that goes into a finger crack overhang and exits left of the keyhole; I thought was 5.9 and offered a good variant to the Wally finish. This variant finish has a good seam & position for an anchor (maybe 2-3") that allows you to watch your second.

Thanks Mark.

It seemed like there were 4 routes that were to the left of Wally World and to the right of a tree that was touching the rock. We did 1 of these, which was the one with the eye-bolts/welded cold shuts/old style hangers or whatever the hell they are called. It was about 130 feet long or so to a two bolt anchor. It felt about 5.6/7 This route was the farthest left next to the tree (of the 4 on the right side of the slab). I don't want to start a nasty conversation regarding bolts here, but this section was almost grid bolted. There are so many bolts on this section of the slab its a bit hard to tell what is what. It was a little silly too as the routes all looked the same. EXACTLY the same.

To the left of the tree, there were at least 3 more routes. There was 1 just to the right of the mungy crack which had 2 buttonheads right next to each other with a ground-fall run-out above them. Then there were two more routes to the right of this line. The both started in the same place, which was an easy climb up to the first bolt. We did both of them and they were both fairly hard with thin cruxes. The one on the right has an 8 foot vertical section which involves some pretty wild moves as far Platte slab climbing goes. There may have been more to the left still, but we didn't explore.

-Mack

Looks like you climbed the Central Corner route (hopefully the weather was good - the last few times we went there I couldn't do it because it was too frickin cold & windy to be enjoyable & weather moved in on us).

The routes on the left-most part of the lower slab are considerably more difficult in grade even though they look similar to the right side. We went up there one day and saw about 4 bail biners on that side. Gridbolting -- well the routes felt like they had different technical moves to me; I dunno, it seems like a good way to get some other climbs in after trad'ing, and they did install camo-hangers, I don't really see this slab being a problem.

I see shell casings, targets, broken bottles left behind, tree ribbons, & trail erosion as more of an eyesore. Some of the ribbons take you on alternative social trails, which I think you were also concerned; there is one good/established way to get up there without dealing with loose rock & further damaging erosive soils.

The hike up there still sucks ass but the climbing is good. One thing that may still be of interest is parking; if you park in the Kelsey CG turnoff, they have been known to call the sheriff and have you pay the CG fee (it depends on if the CG is open). You can park along the roadside (about 100' past the turnoff) without a problem.

Mark,

We did in fact climb the Central Corner. We actually took one of the routes on the left up to the crack though and climbed the easier slab afterwards. The route we took actually did have a red bail biner on it. If you are wondering how the corner was, its totally great. You are going to love it when you finally get to climb it.

Please don't get the wrong idea about my grid-bolting comment. I was very reluctant to word it that way as my feelings on bolting are harder to explain than quantum physics. I am not exactly opposed to what I saw at Skinner, however, its just that both my partner and I thought that the slab looked like someone just shotgun blasted the wall with bolts. My main reason for even saying this though, was to further illustrate that it was hard to discern how many routes there were, or "what was what" so to speak.

I must say that I do agree with you though. If I had to choose between heavy bolting or litter, shell casings, and the like (not to mention the sound of frickin constant gunfire, arrghh!) I would choose the bolts any day.

Regarding the trail, I posted an update on the Skinner Mountain page about it. We added a cairn at the beginning of the good trail, and it should be easier to find now. If you find "the" trail, the hike isn't that bad at all.

-Mack

Cool, just remember to duck if things start wizzing by your head. Someone unloaded a 50 cal as I was in a crimp move, scared the piss out of me. Just another day in the splat!!

Also, another bit of news, I believe the Elk Creek Station is changing ownership & didn't have my Murphy's the last time we happened over there. Hopefully, things don't change too much, it's a descent place to get a bite & brew. Bring back the Murphy's!

If you have been scared of getting shot, seen unsafe shooting, or you are just fed up with all the crap they leave behind. I encourage you to call the South Platte Ranger District to complain. The number is 303-275-5610. Shooting and littering in this area and forest road 550 has become a problem. The Forest Service is working on a plan to close this area to shooting (except hunting) within the next couple of years but it could be sooner if more people complain.

The rumors about Elk Creek Station is that the new owners are going to serve health food and there will not be a bar. I didn't think that the food was all that good before plus it was kind of expensive. It will also be nice to not see dogs running around when you are eating.

I would say that at that location, the gun owners using the shooting range have been responsible. I don't see any reason to call and complain out of fear of being shot at. Shooting in the USFS lands is legal provided certain circumstances and regs are followed -- all of which go along with responsible gun ownership & use. If noise is a problem at Skinner, why not then also complain about trucks & the rides that cruise through. I don't see the point in complaining about this. This is what the S. Platte area is; it's an area where militia are. I would rather they were at the shooting range then out in the hiking areas.

ECS -- A health food motif?? well I guess we'll see if it works. I don't see how this will change the residents that live there. Man, no beer? Well that bites.

Yes, shooting is legal but there has been a lot of illegal shooting in the area. Such as a dozen or more live trees shot down on FS roads 528 E and F as well as 4to 6 trees in the shooting range. I've pulled into these roads and shooters have targets nailed to trees with no safe back stops. I've also been bouldering on FS road 550 and seen the same thing happening but this time they were shooting towards the Colorado Trail. I know there are responsible shooters out there. They clean up everything they pack in and shoot in a safe manner. It seems like there are a lot more people in the woods these days I would just hate to see something bad happen.

agreed, I think we are talking about 2 different situations.

I can't imagine a the ECS as a health food place, not can I imagine it being very sucessfull given the small local community. If a bar cannot make it in Pine.........

It's too bad too because after a long day of climbing, I thought their food tasted pretty good, and was fairly priced. Oh well.

I would have to say I think that all shooting up in the south Platte is obnoxious but they have the right to be there too. I don't know if anyone is familiar with those two little roads that are around the corner from skinner (just a half a mile or so north, right before the scenic overlook) one goes east, one goes west, but I used to camp there when I started climbing in the Platte. It Looks a freaking WAR ZONE!!!!!!!! I don't know when it happened but there are what seems like hundreds of downed trees, shot up refrigerators,and bullet shells, it looks like a damn landfill, it almost brought me to tears when I came back to camp there, it was the perfect spot to throw down the sleeping bags, climb up on the little domes in the area, drink a few beers, crash, and get moving and go climbing in the morning. This was a very special place to me and the shooters ruined it, hands down, no one else to blame it on, all the evidence is there. If anyone else knows the place I'm talking about they know what I mean, and if anyone owns a pick up truck and would be into doing a serious cleanup sometime, maybe BBQ'ing drinking some beers, and making this place habitable again I would be there.

You are talking about FS roads 528 E and F. I know what you mean. Things are getting out of hand. There was even a suicide on 528F (west side of 126) two months ago. There has also been meth labs found in the area. Just be careful of who you run into these days.

Christopher Jones wrote: There has also been meth labs found in the area.

METH LABS! You have got to be kidding me......... I went back there to camp last year and couldn't believe what I saw. I left and camped on 550 which also had so much broken glass I was worried my dogs paws where going to get shredded, and of course bullet shells everywhere. I have thought about contacting the forest service and asking if I tried to clean things up and bagged up all the trash if they could maybe pick it up and dispose of it.......... I don't know I just don't understand it. I guess this is a little off topic for this thread sorry.

Andrew, I'd say you have some viable concerns, the Forest Service is really stretched, even more so now with all of the erosive burn areas and potential for more to burn, there is no one agency that can actively manage the entire area. It's a very difficult situation in itself to promote a conservational use policy balancing restoration & recreation much less enforcement of drug manf. and other illegal activities. Thanks for offering to help the area, I really appreciate it, personally.

Still nothing on the new routes? Bummer. I dont know why I care, I guess I was just curious.

I don't know who put those routes up and have no idea of names or grades. The bolts have been there since I started climbing there in 03'. I would have to agree with Mark on how they are easy to harder from right to left. The first two routes share the same anchor and the third one goes about a full rope length up to some anchors just to the left of Wally World which can be used to end the first pitch of WW. These are all good climbs to take beginners on since the Platte is not really beginner friendly. These are the only slabs that I've climbed here and this is all I know. Sorry we got so far off topic the other day.

No worries dude. I started the "off-topic-ing" anyway. I was actually most concerned with the button-head route, and the two (or more) to the right of it. You know the usual, names, ratings, when they were done... etc. I am pretty sure that the one with the button heads is the one that was in Hubbel's book as being the left most line, and the 9. I am also curious to know if this route does indeed have more bolts on it than just the ones at the start.

-Mack

From Chris[topher]: These are all good climbs to take beginners on since the Platte is not really beginner friendly. These are the only slabs that I've climbed here and this is all I know.

Also, Chris[topher], I would recommend 11-Mile Canyon to work with beginning climbs in the S. Platte (there is a bunch of other good stuff that can offend any talent level). Off-the-topic post, of course. But, be aware of multi-pitch commitments, maybe a "beginner" beginner is not so good to just throw the nuts and cams to, but that wasn't my meaning.

Mark,

I have been to Elevenmile many times. I'm actually from the Springs so it's relatively convenient. Some good routes there. I am no stranger to the Platte, I actually prefer to climb there.

-Mack

Oops - I meant Christopher, I just now saw you were both Chris. Sorry about that.