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Grahm Doe / Self Published / 2025
Purchase this book
Shuteye Ridge is a rock climbers paradise housing miles of crags strewn along a picturesque ridge in California’s western Sierra mountains.
The new first half of the Shuteye Ridge 2nd edition is here and ready to ship. Special thanks to everyone who helped support the kickstarter and turn this book into reality!
Back in 2013 the 1st edition was released and then sold out in 2020. It's been 5 long years since a copy was available.
Wait, what? First half? Yes, thats right! The guide book will now be split into two volumes. This first volume "North" are all the crags reached from Oakhurst, which neatly splits the route count of the area in half. The second volume "South" with crags reached from North Fork, will be ready in a year or two. The first edition was a whopping 400+ page epic that some complained was too heavy in their packs. Now the North section alone has an addition of over 100 new routes, new walls and a whole new area. You can imagine with new routes added from the South section, the book could reach 600 pages. That's for sure too heavy to lug up a steep Shuteye Ridge approach! Since it is unlikely that most will travel between the North and South Sections in a day, this new division of the book into two volumes makes good sense.
Shuteye 2nd edition has a quality sewn binding just like the 1st edition. Sewn bindings are unavailable in the USA unfortunately, so South Korea was a good alternative for printing. This is the strongest binding you can get and ensures a long lasting quality book that goes in and out of your pack. It also has an oversized heavy duty cover for protection just like the 1st edition.
What's new compared to the first edition? Updates include: 114 new pitches from 5.6 to 14a in just the North Zone!, an exciting whole new area (Ice Falls), GPS Coordinates for every crag (for the directionally challenged), improved written driving directions with accurate odometer readings turn to turn. Updated route star ratings based on online reviews, drone view photos of Magic Wall, Hidden Eagle and Lost Eagle's walls for brand new topos and overviews. This improved view helps you quickly find the routes and see what the top of the crag looks like for walk offs etc. Grade changes based on reviews and for routes with broken holds. Details on sent projects over the last 10 years, also open projects ripe for sending. A new picture in picture photo layout allows for packing in stacks of many never before seen action photos. On maps, a larger font and arrow size makes reading them easier. Updated hiking info including distance and elevation change.
Those familiar with my guide books know I go through great lengths to get clear photos of the walls to draw accurate topo lines of route paths and anchor locations. I am excited to add the new use of a drone for that perfect birds eye view of some formations, walls and action photos. I also use many ground based photos so when you walk up to the wall you can easily see the starts as well.
Lots of action photos throughout will get you psyched to climb! Action shots give a real feel of the wall and climbing experience. Many photographers including myself have contributed lots of excellent photos over the decades. When ever possible First Ascent photos are included as there is only one chance to capture these special moments in time.
I also have an easy to use color coded system on the topos. Green up to 5.9, Blue 5.10, Orange 5.11, Red 5.12. This allows you to quickly scan a page and choose the grade you are going for. Detailed route descriptions include grade, safety rating (PG-13,R,X), name, star quality rating, length in meters, bolt count and or gear required, route description of what you will encounter, descent options when needed, and the FA Party and date of ascent. It is everything you need to find the route, climb it, have a blast and move on to the next.
I have been climbing here since 2004 and personally climbed about 95% of the routes to verify the information. Lots of research has been done to clarify route paths, route names and first ascent party info.
From the back cover: Welcome to Shuteye Ridge! A climbers paradise housing miles of crags strewn along a picturesque ridge in California’s western Sierra mountains. Renowned for its bullet hard and highly featured granite, this vast area has a huge variety of climbs ranging from easy, low angle multi-pitch to overhanging test pieces. Climbs here are bathed in a beautiful landscape with breathtaking views. This color rock climbing guide presents the North Sector (Areas accessed from Oakhurst). It points the way to amazing boulder fields, fantastic hikes and memorable rock climbs. In your hands lay the keys to adventure.
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![Book Cover]()
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Grahm Doe / Self Published / 2025
Purchase this book
Includes a sampling of climbs from : Lewis Creek bouldering, Volcanics sport routes and bouldering, Willow Creek sport and trad climbs, Fresno Dome sport and trad climbs and Shuteye Ridges Chilkoot Lake area bouldering, sport and trad climbs.
This select rock climbing guide is catered towards convenience cragging with short drives and quick approaches in the Oakhurst (Stokehurst) area. A high density of climbs await the traveling climber looking to maximize their time in the area. Also a good resource for local climbers. Most of these areas have never had accurate route and topo info before.
Bouldering, topropes, sport and trad climbs on a variety of rock from Volcanic to Granite. All reached via easy dirt roads for 2wd vehicles.
Published 2022. Full color. Highly accurate turn by turn odometer readings with directions. GPS coordinates for each area. To scale overview maps. Color coded route ratings by difficulty for quick reference. Accurate route descriptions by one of the areas prominent route developers. First ascent details. Drone shots for accurate topos. 56 pages.
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