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Meagher Bluffs Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Meagher Bluffs

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	Antietam S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Exiled S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Frontier Justice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Trouble at the Fort S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Virginia City Shuffle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Young Irelander S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Elevation:	4,417 ft	1,346 m
GPS:	46.71806, -111.79284 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	165 total · 32/month
Shared By:	Ross Monasmith on Oct 9, 2025 · Updates
Admins:	GRK, Zach Wahrer Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Any climber driving out to Trout Creek or Beaver Creek has probably glanced up at this band of white limestone above the York Bridge. Lacking any nearby named feature on topographical maps, the crag is named for the rock formation noted on the area geological maps: Meagher Limestone, a Cambrian cliff band much older than the limestone exposed in the Trout and Beaver Creek canyons up the road. This is generally the same limestone exposed at Mt Helena. Route names follow the theme of the life of Thomas Meagher---the immortal Irishman, and Montana's first territorial governor.

What it lacks in roadside cragging, it makes up for in excellent views of the Missouri River and Helena Valley. The crag faces southwest, and catches sun starting about 10AM in the summer---this spot is not very snowy and is well suited for the shoulder seasons. Climbing is slabby and moderate, punctuated by slight bulges and overlaps. Rock quality is variable, although all the climbs have some nice bullet sections and generally improve with height. A stick clip is recommended. The crag is currently under development and you may encounter loose rock and fixed lines, but the bolts are modern stainless 3/8", and no runouts will be encountered. The cliffs and approach are located on BLM land---please leave no trace. Several rock cairns were already present, marking a fairly efficient way to the gully below the climbs, although there was no sign of any previous ascents on the cliffs.

Getting There

The approach provides a great chance to be thoroughly warmed up before climbing. It is about 1 mile and 600ft of elevation gain from the parking at the river to the base of the crag. For context, Blue Cloud gains about 500ft in 1.5 miles and Upper Rock at Sheep gains about 700ft in half a mile. That said, the first section off the parking and the last section up to the crag are kind of a bear.

Park at the pullout on the north side of York Road once you cross the bridge. This is a popular swimming and fishing access point in the summer. Walk downriver a couple hundred feet to the ropeswing/firepit, and begin steeply switching back up game trails until you have gained about 250 feet of elevation, contouring north where possible. You should reach a mining exploration trench and traverse along the edge of it for a few hundred feet before crossing it and working your way through open forest to the northeast. Contour and gently climb across a few gullys below the quartzite bands, aiming for a bench below (west of) the quartzite outcrops. From the bench, contour into the north facing gulch below the climbs. Head up the gulch until you are directly below the main wall (easy to pick out by the large fir tree at the base). Begin switching back towards the climbs, with the final few hundred feet in the scree gully below the climb. I don't recommend flippy floppys for this one, at least until the trail gets a little more beat in---approach shoes or boots will be better for the scree.

Things you might encounter along the way, in order: several birdhouses, a Dales beer can, fenced off mining exploration pits, a mine claim marker labeled 'Tick Feaver', old fire rings, three Ponderosas growing from a single base, several rock cairns, and two deer skulls on a log.

The approach takes about 30 minutes at a steady moderate pace.