Borderlands Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 7,881 ft | 2,402 m |
| GPS: |
44.15462, -106.87229 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 154 total · 19/month | |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Aug 18, 2025 | |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
The main roads are all on public property, but don't drive down anything resembling a driveway or leading to a residence. Maintain a low profile when climbing here. Keep dogs in control or consider not bringing them out here. Camp well away from any cabins, watch your campfire carefully, and pack out all trash! The cliffs and access are all on public land and legit, but the proximity to private holdings requires sensitivity and best behavior. Be good stewards to this special area and we'll all enjoy it for years to come!
Description
This north facing crag makes a great summertime venue. Steep climbing abounds, some of the routes are 20° - 30° overhanging making for pumpy resistance climbing. The area is significantly steeper than the nearby Crazy Women cliff and most of Ten Sleep. Most of the routes are 80-100' tall so a 70m rope and at least 12 draws is best.
Originally developed in 2012 by Kevin Wilkinson, Alli Rainey, David Sjoquist, and Billy Brown. Later Louie Anderson came thru and added his handiwork. Johnathon Horst came thru in 2020 and cleaned up some open projects.
There are 24 completed routes with 6 open projects. Grades range from 5.11a - 5.14a, with the concentration of routes being 5.12-5.13
Be warned, many of the routes even the easier ones have quite a few manufactured holds.
There is a guidebook by Trevor Bowman "Rock Climbs of the Eastern Big Horns".
Some of the better / more traveled routes are:
- Claptrap 5.11c Probably the best warmup
- Alpha Skag 5.12a All natural seam to powerful crack / layback climbing
- Snigel Spår 5.12b All natural layback seam to powerful face climbing
- Static Death 5.13a Well set crimp and pocket climbing thru natural features
- Super Pandora 5.13d Long pumpy overhanging linkup of Super Booster & Pandora
- Berzerker 5.13d/14a Well set steep pocket and crimp line
Getting There
If coming from Buffalo turn left onto Hazelton Road. (From Ten Sleep turn right). Follow Hazelton Road South to Billy Creek Road / 468. Turn Left onto 468 and head East until a junction and veer left. Follow this to a four way intersection and turn right. The road to the left has a gate, and going straight takes you to a private residence. Follow this road to a clearing at the top of the hill with a parking area on the left. The trail starts from this parking area. The Map Directions will take you to the parking. The road is in pretty good shape and can be traveled with moderate clearance. Do not camp or park overnight at the Trailhead - See Access Note.
The crag visible from the parking area is TLC wall. To get to the Borderlands head downhill and slightly left from the parking lot. Follow the trail as it drops downhill and trends right around to the base of the wall. Roughly 15 minutes at a leisurely pace. The trail meets the cliff at the route "Static Death"
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