Falkenstein Rock Climbing

If the Tante reminds American climbers of the Needles of the Blackhills, then the roughly 300 foot high Falkenstein will be reminiscent of the red buttes of Monument Valley. The first modern era route up the butte, using a system of chimneys on the east face, was likely the hardest fifth class rock climb in the world when it was established by Oscar Schuster in 1892. Even with a harness and sticky rubber it will still get your full attention. For the history, as well as the quality of the rock and the climbing, this tower is worth a visit to the Elbesandstein.

BTW, bold ascents are nothing new for the Falkenstein. Bernd Arnold's history of the Elbesandstein notes that the first ascent of this fifth class tower was actually made long before Oscar Schuster in 1892. It appears that the Saxon military made a signal post on the summit of the tower in the mid 1400's... no word on what route they used or what grade they gave it, but we can all accept it was a worthy ascent. Then in 1864 a group of local gymnasts ascended the Falkenstein via a chimney on the north face.