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Elevation: 5,416 ft 1,651 m
GPS: 34.88584, -111.80483
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 113 total · 9/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jan 31, 2025
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

The central of the three distinct alcoves carved into the north flank, and home to the best patina panel. The wall is guarded by several lower cliff-bands, and is accessed by a devious traverse in from the right (west).

Getting There Suggest change

Follow the approach directions on the Capitol Butte North Face overview page to access the main drainage. The bulk of the approach to the Center Lead Wall is the same as for the Eighties Babies Buttress. Follow the drainage uphill past the Center Lead Wall until the splitter of Eighties Babies is visible, and turn uphill (north) up a prominent side drainage. Ascend this steep side drainage that is decent going and generally clear of brush until it ends at a cliff, cut left (east) and sidehill on steep, loose slopes crossing another smaller side drainage to the base of the buttress (look for cairns to help find the best path). Skirt around the buttress on the left (east) and up a short scramble and continue up and slightly left (east) to another short band with a fixed hand-line. From the top of this band, traverse further left (east) and link brushy ledges and short steep bits until the drainage below the upper wall is reached; this section involves some exposure as you traverse above a cliff, take care! Scramble up the final drainage on slickrock to the wall and traverse the base left (east) a couple hundred feet to the routes.
The approach is circuitous and a bit inobvious, but not too bad if you pay attention and find the correct passages.
Approx. 1 hr hiking time.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Center Lead Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Dune Messiah
Trad 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dune Messiah
 9
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 5 pitches
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