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Del Agua Spire Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Del Agua Spire

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Southeast Ridge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

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Elevation:	8,971 ft	2,734 m
GPS:	35.242, -106.45534 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	411 total · 19/month
Shared By:	Alex Fischer on Jun 3, 2023
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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About Del Agua Spire

DESCRIPTION
Del Agua Spire is a prominent spire that is easily identifiable at several points on the approach to Cañon Del Agua. It is visible from the Knife Edge, although from that perspective it resembles a buttress on the main cliff face more than a detached spire. When you see it in the canyon however it appears as a pointy, freestanding spire that just begs to be climbed.

HISTORY
According to the summit register, Del Agua Spire was first climbed on November 1, 1964 by L Gary Honcomb, Jack Kutz, R E Kyrlach, and La Floma Kutz (?). All members of the New Mexico Mountain Club. They started from the saddle between the spire and the main cliff face and climbed the north face. There was a flurry of climbing activity on the spire after that, with a handful of ascents until 1979, which is the year of the last ascent we found in the summit register. All parties seemed to take either the "North Face" route or the "East Side" route (this seems to be the same route as the SE ridge mentioned in the old Hill guidebook). The first free ascent was by Steve Schum and Ronald Sr Hof (?), via a combination of the east side and the north face. The north face route (which has a stellar overhanging crack) likely has not been freed. Photos of all the pages from the summit register as of June 2023.

Getting There & Getting Off

APPROACH
Approach from the crest. Take the crest trail north, past North Sandia Peak. Just before the Del Agua Overlook, cut left into the aspens and drop below the crest (there is a good spot to do this a few hundred ft before the overlook: 35.23730, -106.44982). Avoid the temptation to traverse right towards the visible rock—this will lead to cruxy downclimbing through the limestone bands and worse bushwhacking. Instead, traverse left and slightly down through the aspens, following good game trails, for about 1000ft until you get to a faint gully (at 35.23752, -106.45367). Follow this gully straight down as it becomes more prominent and rockier. Soon, you will get to a little 15ft downclimb through a granite cliff band, which is easily tackled head on or on either side. Shortly after this, you will see a nice granite cliff show up on your right. When this cliff curves away to the right and you have the opportunity to leave the gully and start bushwhacking to the right, do so. Exit the gully and traverse right, staying at roughly the same elevation, as you fight your way through the dense vegetation towards the bigger cliffs on your right. This part has the worst bushwhacking, although it is over fast. Del Agua Spire is an obvious landmark to aim for. Allow 1.25+ hours to reach Del Agua Spire from the crest. The climbing area map for this area has a GPS track of the approach.

DESCENT
One single-rope rappel over the north side of the spire (over the edge that the bolts are right next to). Bring at least a 60m rope; it will be close with a 60m rope so make sure to tie knots in the end of your rope. This drops you into the saddle between the spire and the main cliff face. Follow the bushy gully to the southeast (left when looking at the spire). At the bottom of the gully, turn right and follow the cliff face back to your packs.

The bolts are currently connected with tat that goes over the edge. Make sure to inspect any fixed tat and replace it if necessary. Next party should consider bringing 4 ft of chain and 2 quicklinks to make the anchor go over the edge without tat.