Cleft Cave Rock Climbing

Cleft Cave was first surveyed in 1969 by the McMaster University KARST Research Group. Since then, it has seen a multitude of explorers and weekenders enjoying its simplicity of terrain and high-value experience. The cave itself is simple, easy to travel in, and uses no technical rope work. The feature that draws the multitudes is the lofty lookout points at the end. The cave entrance is in the right fork of Ptolemy Valley (The Promise Land), but the lookout points are two gallery-view-type windows in the middle of a cliff looking into the left fork of Ptolemy Valley (Andy Good Basin).

In 2022, a two pitch rappel route (17m and 30m) was established out of the gallery view window (stay right in the cave) by Daniel Vanderpyl and Nathan Shenton. Now you can retreat from the cave by rappelling out and walking through a different basin.

This makes for a cool multisport day!!

Bike > Hike > Rock Climb > Cave > Rappel out of Cave Window > Alpine Lake Dip > Hike/Bike out.

If you are camping at the Promised Land for a caving trip, then the Cleft Crag is perfect for an evening session in the sun. Just bring some quickdraws and climbing shoes in addition to your caving setup and you should be good. 

The rock is standard limestone. The 'Resident Goat' and 'Ain't No Phreatic Crawl' lines are parallel to a seeping flow, which creates a darker, polished dolostone-type runoff. The rock quality here is good, and agreeably aesthetic. 

For more information on caving in the area, including Cleft Cave, get in contact with the Alberta Speleological Association (ASS) or refer to:

Rollins, J. (2004). Caves of the Canadian Rockies and Columbia Mountains. Surrey, BC: Rocky Mountain Books