Desperation Wall Rock Climbing

Short bouldery climbs are the name of the game at this little slice of para... well maybe its just "meh" climbing worth checking out if you are looking for more to climb. They all can’t be winners, right? I highly recommend the climbs further up the hill as they have higher quality moves and a more desirable length. However, Desperation Wall provides fun quartzite (hornblend gneiss?) climbing with very few incut jugs that will force you to proactively search for good feet that all still have a nice thick layer of lichen. This should clean up with more traffic, but avoid the wall for a day after rain as the lichen is incredibly slick. All of the routes are "boulderer" friendly with difficult crux sections into relatively easy climbing, powerful moves, and short lengths (a 50m rope works great). All the climbs have nice fixed carabiners at the top to make for an enjoyable day of cragging. A stickclip or bouldering pad is required for the left three routes as the first bolts are pretty high. The right three routes have fairly low bolts to prevent falling off of the belay ledge.

There is an obvious crack that bisects the wall. It is pretty mossy, but I'm sure it would be an enjoyable climb. It looks like you would have to have a follower remove gear. Still, it is possible to link to any of the right climbs to get anchors to lower off. Based on what I have climbed, it seems around 5.4 (crux right near the bottom) and would take gear from #1-5 Black Diamond cams.