Wild River Crag Climbing

This North-facing crag is composed of good black basalt. Unlike the other basalt crags in the East Fork Canyon, this crag is mostly less than vertical. While most of the crags on the south side of the river are covered in moss, this one is relatively clean. Being just above the river, the rock shows a lot of water polish. Another unusual aspect is the presence of small (like 1/4" cubes) holds that are crisscrossed with fracture lines on some routes. Given the choice of 3 moves of .8 on small holds or one move of 10a high step, I would do the 10a every time. The routes are rated for this harder but safer style of leading. This isn't to say that there are no small holds used. Like all this East Fork basalt, the routes are all sequential mazes, generally heavily bolted with solid looking but fractured holds avoided. Since all these routes are mine, I know the sequence before I do the free lead. This makes rating the route difficult, because routes are rated for the ground up, onsight leader. So, I guess I'm saying that all my ratings are suspect. The crag is best climbed in July to October during a dry season. Most of the bolts are 4" or 3" stainless steel with ss hangers. There are some 5" galvanized with plated steel hangers . All are 3/8" .