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Sunbeam Spire Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Sunbeam Spire

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Dynamite in the Night T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	5,919 ft	1,804 m
GPS:	44.27053, -114.73595 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	641 total · 13/month
Shared By:	High Plains Drifter on Dec 3, 2021
Admins:	Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The rock face that sits on the end of the old Sunbeam Dam, directly next to the river. Epic positioning next to a class IV rapid!

NOTE: The base of the wall is almost always under fast moving water, except in the late fall or in a very low water year. The Salmon River needs was about 400cfs on the Salmon River below Yankee fork USGS gauge when we were there, but you could probably make it work at 500cfs. You could belay from the crack in the top if water is too high to access the bottom.

Getting There

Park in the large pullout with the interpretive signs and pit toilet, directly across highway 75 from Sunbeam Village. Hop the fence and walk down a slightly decomposing trail to the top of the Dam. Walk across the top of the dam to the obvious spire. From here, you can either do a 5.0 scramble up the backside (facing away from the river) of the spire to the top, build an anchor in the crack at the top and rappel in. Or, from the top of the dam scramble down to the swamp at the bottom and then walk through the hidden tunnel in the face, which will be on you right as you walk downstream through the marsh.