Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: FA: Earl George, Will Gattiker; FFA: Earl George July 2021
Page Views: 169 total · 9/month
Shared By: High Plains Drifter on Dec 3, 2021
Admins: Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle

You & This Route

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This route starts up the line marked by a few pitons on some good edges on less-than-ideal rock. The slightly crumbly rock isn't surprising given that this feature was blasted out of the ground only 100 years ago by some monkey-wrenching vigilantes. Towards the top the route steepens a bit and the holds become bigger, and you can even use the left arete. There are some cracks up here that will take cams, which feel a lot more trustworthy than the pitons!

Overall the quality of the climbing is decent, but the incredible position right next to (and for the belayer, sometimes a foot in) a big rapid makes this route super worthwhile if you're spending some time in the area. We might come back and bolt an anchor or possibly the entire lower section. Another potential route may go up to the right of ours, but would be even harder and more sparsely protected. 


On the face of the spire directly adjacent to the river. The route that we completed goes up the left side of the wall. 


The lower section is protected by a few knifeblades that are fixed there. The upper section takes small-medium sized cams well. An extensive anchor can be built in the crack at the top with several small-medium sized cams and large stoppers. Two pitons on the right side of the wall give the belayer something to clip in to to prevent an unexpected swim through the rapid.