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Elevation: 10,396 ft 3,169 m
GPS: 40.71718, -110.85687
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,009 total · 166/month
Shared By: Jay Williams on Jun 15, 2021
Admins: Jim Clarke, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This newly discovered area is a great place to use some of that trad gear while climbing in the Uintas! Facing south, with rock similar to Ruth Lake, you will likely have the place to yourself as you bask in direct sun (the crags face south overlooking a few green meadows) with fantastic views and a gentle breeze. Samak local Jay Williams and Ron Fried (NY) discovered these crags on a hike in the summer of 2018. The approach from the Highline Trail parking lot takes 20-25 minutes if you stay on the trail. FYI, you do NOT hike the Highline Trail to get here.

The meat and potatoes--this is a trad crag--no bolts except a few top anchors. Bolted anchors exist at the top of Black Streak 5.10a, Horizontal Crack Madness 5.6, and Exposure Arete 5.7. Cracks here eat up cams, often horizontal, and this is a great place to practice sewing up a climb (placing more gear than needed). Most routes require a range of finger-sized cams with a few larger sizes to round things out. That said…

This is an adventure crag. New, unmolested, clean. This little gem is a nice escape from barking dogs at Ruth Lake, boy scouts, and other modern life distractions. Some routes might have vegetation in cracks--use a nut tool when needed. And enjoy this new, secret crag! Remember, for some routes, you will be anchoring off trees and cracks at the top of the climb. Also, predator tracks have been seen in the area...keep your pets on a leash or at home.

Getting There Suggest change

Black Streak Wall: From the Highline Trail parking lot, park your car at the first smaller Hiker Parking lot (not the horse lots). In front of the smaller parking area is a brown metal picnic table (as of 2020). From this lot, go 120 degrees east/southeast, hiking on fairly flat ground for 0.6 miles. You do NOT hike on the Highline Trail to approach this crag. Stay high (usually meandering to your left slightly) if you have a choice/see a trail. You will be following a trail spotting the occasional rock cairn. This approach takes you to the top of the cliff where the routes Hot & Thorny and Black Streak are located. Other routes continue to the east. From the top of the cliffs, hike east down an obvious grassy slope to reach the base of this wall.  Contains routes 1. Hot & Thorny to 12. Late Day Surprise.

Cave Buttress Wall: From Black Streak Wall, hike to your right at a compass bearing of 90 degrees due east. Angle slightly uphill as you hike towards a buttress with a large cave on the left (west facing) side.  Contains routes 13. Short and Sassy to 15. I'm All Thumbs.

Exposure Arete Wall: From Cave Buttress Wall, continue east. You will cross a wooded, wet and mossy forested slope that is oddly fertile. While rock and log hopping (trying not to get your feet wet) look yonder--above the talus field, a large face with a right-facing jagged arete will come into view. This is your destination for full sun and the whisper of the alpine wind.  Contains routes 16. Screaming Kitties to 21. Passive Aggressive.

21 Total Climbs

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