Bonanza Peak Rock Climbing

Bonanza Peak, a 'huge granitic spider,' is the tallest nonvolcanic peak in Washington.
This mountain is situated west of the headwaters of Lake Chelan and just northwest of Lucerne. It has enormous relief of 8,000 feet in the ten miles from the former. The spider description comes from an older mountaineer and explorer and denotes the system of ten ridges that build up the peak, which in turn support seven living glaciers. The Mary Green glacier is one of the most impressive alpine glaciers not on a volcano.
If only, avid alpinists yearn, that Bonanza were made of solid rock. Instead, it is loose, metamorphic orthogneiss. Combine this with the complexity of its features, the many glaciers and the lonely position, and it is a true alpine challenge for the quintessential Cascade hardman.
Bonanza's prominent spot on the Bulger list make it a reasonably popular ascent despite its remoteness, one that is often combined with Martin, Copper or North Star peaks. The Mary Green glacier offers the most accessible route from Lucerne.
Inclement weather is an extreme hazard on this mountain. Beckey describes that extra rockfall can occur in almost any adverse conditions - rain loosens rock, warm temperatures melt snow and do the same, and late season ends up with scree slopes falling apart. With the exception of long ice routes on Rainier or Baker, the problems of Bonanza may be the closest the Cascades come to summer in the Alps or Canadian Rockies.