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Middle Finger 中指峰 Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 409 ft | 125 m |
| GPS: |
24.74055, 110.49672 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 1,410 total · 22/month | |
| Shared By: | Bruno Beltran on Dec 6, 2019 | |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Dan Flynn |
Description
One of the less traveled crags in the area, the "Middle Finger" contains a plurality of the well-publicized trad routes in Yangshuo.
Practice placing gear in limestone or test your mettle on one of the several open projects remaining on the mostly-aptly-named "Sport Wall", or head around back to the "Trad Wall" to find several clean, well-protected multipitch lines that attain the over-vegetated summit.
While the guide book touts this as the best trad climbing in the area, it clearly does not get much traffic, so be prepared to replace slings on rappel and maybe bushwhack your way onto the first pitches of the routes on the trad wall.
That said, the lines are aesthetic, the protection good, and the climbing is a ton of fun, especially for grumpy trad-uncles who need a break from pulling on overhanging tufas every day.
I'd definitely choose to travel with my rack again!
Practice placing gear in limestone or test your mettle on one of the several open projects remaining on the mostly-aptly-named "Sport Wall", or head around back to the "Trad Wall" to find several clean, well-protected multipitch lines that attain the over-vegetated summit.
While the guide book touts this as the best trad climbing in the area, it clearly does not get much traffic, so be prepared to replace slings on rappel and maybe bushwhack your way onto the first pitches of the routes on the trad wall.
That said, the lines are aesthetic, the protection good, and the climbing is a ton of fun, especially for grumpy trad-uncles who need a break from pulling on overhanging tufas every day.
I'd definitely choose to travel with my rack again!
Getting There
Maps.me is your best bet for finding the crag thanks to offset imposed on Google Maps by the Chinese government.
Drive to the town of LongYanMen (龙岩们) and continue through town until the paved road ends onto a gravel road. When you reach the end of the road, the large, absurdly vertical karst to your left behind the horse stable will be the Middle Finger.
To reach the approach trail, continue driving a couple hundred feet and make a sharp left to drive back towards the rock onto some levees.
The approach trails are almost impossible to see, but the trail for the trad wall begins BEFORE the fields start. It is obviously infrequently used but should feel very much like a trail (and not bushwhacking) once you are on it. We found that we had enough room to park our bike on the levee without obstructing the path for the farmers.
Drive to the town of LongYanMen (龙岩们) and continue through town until the paved road ends onto a gravel road. When you reach the end of the road, the large, absurdly vertical karst to your left behind the horse stable will be the Middle Finger.
To reach the approach trail, continue driving a couple hundred feet and make a sharp left to drive back towards the rock onto some levees.
The approach trails are almost impossible to see, but the trail for the trad wall begins BEFORE the fields start. It is obviously infrequently used but should feel very much like a trail (and not bushwhacking) once you are on it. We found that we had enough room to park our bike on the levee without obstructing the path for the farmers.
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