Franklin Falls Climbing

With excellent access from I90 and beautiful views, this ice and mixed climbing area is usually busy with hikers. While the main falls itself rarely is in condition to climb, the left and right sides freeze up during cold weather almost every year. The approach can be as little as 5 minutes if the road is snowfree. The routes on the left side of the falls can be treacherous to get to- the ice on the river is often low density spray ice which looks solid until you end up with a boot full of water. In 2019, I bolted two routes on the right side of the falls and a set of anchors was installed above a third route on a free standing pillar.  

I was unable to find the history of the naming of Franklin Falls, so I chose a naming theme based on famous explorer Sir John Franklin and named the pair of bolted routes Terror and Erebus after Franklin's ships. The third route (which goes on screws to a bolted anchor) I named Northwest Passage. Due to the high traffic nature of the area the bolts are camoflauged and may be difficult to spot.

A variety of conditions can be found throughout the winter. With prolonged cold (a week or more of temps at least in the twenties and thirties in Seattle) the area will feature fat ice that will form climbable free standing and free hanging pillars. With a few days of temps in the mid twenties (look for at least barely freezing lows in Seattle for a few days) the two bolted routes should have enough ice to pick at.

*Note: The falls and freeway noise make communication impossible- have a plan before you leave the ground. Also be aware of loose rock and ice-the area can be very crowded with hikers.