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| Elevation: | 5,588 ft | 1,703 m |
| GPS: |
42.51615, -106.77711 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 16,241 total · 255/month | |
| Shared By: | Emerson Takahashi on Sep 16, 2019 | |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Description
Secluded sandstone bouldering at the end of Lakeshore dr.
There are some real quality lines back here, but many will require some cleaning as the traffic is quite low.
Thankfully we don’t have to deal with poor weather very often, but please consider the fragility of sandstone when climbing after a bit of rain. Allow the rock to dry completely before climbing here.
I've tried to find original names of boulder problems, but many have been assigned for the sake of organization for MP. Please add any other known names in comments
Getting There
Drive to the very end of Lakeshore dr. and park in the small lot.
To find the climber trail, start hiking up the bare slickrock from the center of the parking lot. It will weave through some trees following cairns up the hill. This trail will take you to the very top of the drainage and is easy access for all the boulders.
The path on the left takes roughly 10min to get to the top once you know the way, but could take 20-30 if you're looking for cairns. You should always be able to see from one cairn to the next.
Try to avoid walking straight up the drainage. While a very good hike in its own right, lugging pads through there is extremely awkward and laborious. Rough directions to each area will be given below:
Klettergarten- Follow trail up from parking lot for maybe a hundred yards. You'll see a trail breaking to the right across the slab, follow this to reach the Quarterpipe. Drop down into the drainage here to reach Electric Rupture. For The rest of Klettergarten, stay above the drainage and walk uphill from Quarterpipe for a few hundred feet. You’ll drop back into the drainage right above Fly Boy.
BlackMagic- Follow trail from parking lot and keep going uphill past the fork for Klettergarten. After another 5 minutes or so, you'll reach another fork in the trail. Go to the right and drop into the drainage, BlackMagic is the massive boulder to the left with a cozy theater-like area.
Aqueduct- Stay to right at the fork for BlackMagic, but instead of dropping into the drainage, follow a climbers trail up through some trees to eventually come to the Global Warming boulder. The rest of the Aqueduct can be reached by walking between Global Warming and the adjacent boulder and back uphill. You'll soon come to Nautilus and Iceberg. Dragon Scale is down in the drainage.
School Bus- From the BlackMagic fork, go left and walk uphill for another 5-10 minutes. You'll come to the Gill boulder, the rest of the boulders are right across the drainage. Can also be reached by walking up from the Aqueduct, but the trail is currently washed out and awkward with crashpads.
Tread lightly, as there is much cryptobiotic soil in the area
For more beta or climbing gear, head to Mountain Sports in town
Don't Bust the Crust
That lumpy black dirt?
That "crust" is made up of a blue-green algae known as Cyanobacteria- one of the oldest known life forms. You've probably heard this before if you've wandered the Utah desert, but this area of Alcova plays host to a large about of this biological soil. The algae remains dormant until they get wet, where they move around and leave a sticky web that joins the soil together. Younger formations can look like bare earth, while the thicker black crusts are mature and can have taken thousands of years to form. The crust helps protect against erosion, and helps retain water for desert life. Without the cyanobacteria, the high desert would likely be covered in sand dunes.
Life in the desert is dependent on these soils, so please stick to established trails and watch where you step.
Classic Climbing Routes at Brown's Park
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