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BT Butte Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 5,597 ft | 1,706 m |
| GPS: |
34.74478, -112.88843 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 1,589 total · 22/month | |
| Shared By: | Gregory Cooper on Feb 11, 2019 | |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
BT Butte is a tall 100ft+ basalt butte that has the style of Thumb Butte with the rock quality of Lookout Mountain. It is located out in the middle of nowhere hidden behind some mesas out of view from the main road. Some sections seem crumbly, while others are solid. There seems to be some potential FAs of both Sport and Trad variety. Although It looks like most climbs might end up being a bit of both.
There are some interesting features of note. A couple of large detached blocks the size of an apartment building on the Northeast sides. To the South is a spire that is about 50ft. On the West side it looks like a large scoop was taken out of it, and on the north side is a steep ravine. On the east side is a small cave, and a large gulley that make it look like is has a large wing.
I'm not sure if any FAs have been done yet on the butte, but after climbing to the top I was greeted by a very large cairn so we were most definitely not the first ones up there. My guess is some adventurous hikers or ranchers.
The top is very small and looks a like Weavers Needle. There is enough space which you could clear out and perhaps camp on top. There however isn't any great spots to build trad anchors. There are a few large boulders but they would be dicey at best. To get down we ended up down-climbing a 4th/low 5th class gully just right of our climb It's on the East side next to the large detached block. It might be possible to rappel down the north side off a large boulder, but I didn't feel like leaving any gear behind.
If you decide to make the effort to get out to this place, I would suggest camping and spending a few days to get the most out of it due to it's remote location. Many campsites can be found along FR705, or camp on top.
There are some interesting features of note. A couple of large detached blocks the size of an apartment building on the Northeast sides. To the South is a spire that is about 50ft. On the West side it looks like a large scoop was taken out of it, and on the north side is a steep ravine. On the east side is a small cave, and a large gulley that make it look like is has a large wing.
I'm not sure if any FAs have been done yet on the butte, but after climbing to the top I was greeted by a very large cairn so we were most definitely not the first ones up there. My guess is some adventurous hikers or ranchers.
The top is very small and looks a like Weavers Needle. There is enough space which you could clear out and perhaps camp on top. There however isn't any great spots to build trad anchors. There are a few large boulders but they would be dicey at best. To get down we ended up down-climbing a 4th/low 5th class gully just right of our climb It's on the East side next to the large detached block. It might be possible to rappel down the north side off a large boulder, but I didn't feel like leaving any gear behind.
If you decide to make the effort to get out to this place, I would suggest camping and spending a few days to get the most out of it due to it's remote location. Many campsites can be found along FR705, or camp on top.
Getting There
It's ways out there, you'll spend much time traveling there. I would highly recommend a high clearance 4WD drive vehicle. That being said I did make it there in my 2003 Honda Civic LX, but my bushings probably didn't like me much. There are several stream crossings, and the road is very muddy when wet. There is also a steep rocky section for which a spotter and slower careful navigation had to be used. Make sure you fill up on gas before you go. Last gas station isa Texaco at 4155 Outer Loop Rd, Prescott, AZ 86305
THE DRIVE:
1. From Prescott take Williamson Valley Rd north. Turn left onto FR21/County 68 at the "T", this is where it turns into dirt, from there head West towards YOLO ranch. This road is fairly maintained and is friends to most vehicles.
2. Turn left on FR 705 (34.799937, -112.867040). This is where it is recommended that you take a high clearance vehicle. Travel about 4.8 miles. You're getting close when you pass the trail head sign for BT Butte Trail. Keep going. Stop before the road continues downhill into a large drainage. There is a pullout on the right side. I've placed a cairn there to help. (34.751121, -112.879371)
THE APPROACH:
From there, head straight south from your parking location. You'll run into a barbed wire fence. There should a gate (I don't know how we got this lucky) that is hard to open. You can see the butte from here and so you can start heading towards it. Continue heading south, eventually you'll cross a stream/drainage. Bushwhack your way uphill. Stay left of the other drainage that runs down north/south until it clears up on the other side. Eventually you'll see the East face of the butte. Continue up the steep hill zig-zagging following the animal trails to you reach the debris field.
It's probably about 3/4 of a mile from the parking area. There may be a better a approach beta, but this is what we tool our first time. The west side is much steeper than the east.
THE DRIVE:
1. From Prescott take Williamson Valley Rd north. Turn left onto FR21/County 68 at the "T", this is where it turns into dirt, from there head West towards YOLO ranch. This road is fairly maintained and is friends to most vehicles.
2. Turn left on FR 705 (34.799937, -112.867040). This is where it is recommended that you take a high clearance vehicle. Travel about 4.8 miles. You're getting close when you pass the trail head sign for BT Butte Trail. Keep going. Stop before the road continues downhill into a large drainage. There is a pullout on the right side. I've placed a cairn there to help. (34.751121, -112.879371)
THE APPROACH:
From there, head straight south from your parking location. You'll run into a barbed wire fence. There should a gate (I don't know how we got this lucky) that is hard to open. You can see the butte from here and so you can start heading towards it. Continue heading south, eventually you'll cross a stream/drainage. Bushwhack your way uphill. Stay left of the other drainage that runs down north/south until it clears up on the other side. Eventually you'll see the East face of the butte. Continue up the steep hill zig-zagging following the animal trails to you reach the debris field.
It's probably about 3/4 of a mile from the parking area. There may be a better a approach beta, but this is what we tool our first time. The west side is much steeper than the east.
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