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The Saloon Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Saloon

L › R R › L A › Z

	Angel Eyes S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Bar Fight TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Black Tail T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Bolt the Planet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cactus Wren S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Colt 45 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Corner Pocket T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Green Tail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lick My Bolt Hole S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Nuclear Arsenal T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	One Legged Barstool S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sarsaparilla S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Sonoran Moonfire S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Zig Zag #1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Zig Zag #2 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

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Elevation:	2,302 ft	702 m
GPS:	32.35127, -111.13931 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	15,131 total · 174/month
Shared By:	Paul Wright on Jan 1, 2019 · Updates
Admins:	adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Bolting Restriction Details

New bolting or replacing of existing bolts is not permitted by the NPS within Saguaro National Park.

Description

A short 5 minute walk from the entrance to Sanctuary Cove, this 45 foot wall presents several moderate and well protected face climbs in a beautiful Sonoran desert setting. The rock is somewhat crumbly (characteristic for the Tucson Mountains) but the climbs are reasonably safe. The original climbs (including Sonoran Moonfire and One Legged Barstool) were done in 2015. Additional development in 2019-2021 has cleaned up the area significantly and added more climbing options. There is an easy walk off from the top to descend or set up a top rope from.

Near-roadside climbing, morning and afternoon shade (though not mild-day), and majority of moderates have made the Saloon grow in popularity. Please be respectful, keep group sizes small, and use the consolidated trail that accessed the middle of the cliff (not creating side trails from the edges).

Routes Face: Southwest · West

Sun Starts: ~10am

Sun Ends: ~3pm (later in Summer)

Note that posts from 2021 indicated bees in the area, but as of February, 2026, there were no bees whatsoever.

Getting There

Park in the Sanctuary Cove pull out, close to the entrance. Walk out the exit gate and walk south down the dirt road. You'll pass a National Parks Service boundary sign, continue down the trail for 3 minutes while looking out for a wall on the left. A large exposed face can be seen facing the path with two lines of bolts running up. Scramble off the path up to the base of the wall. The top can be reached hiking both left or right of the wall.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Saloon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 17 ● Bolt the Planet Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 24 ● Sonoran Moonfire Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 21 ● Lick My Bolt Hole Sport, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 21 ● Cactus Wren Sport