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Elevation: 2,302 ft 702 m
GPS: 32.35127, -111.13931
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,786 total · 192/month
Shared By: Paul Wright on Jan 1, 2019 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen
Warning Access Issue: Bolting Restriction DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A short 5 minute walk from the entrance to Sanctuary Cove, this 45 foot wall presents several moderate and well protected face climbs in a beautiful Sonoran desert setting. The rock is somewhat crumbly (characteristic for the Tucson Mountains) but the climbs are reasonably safe. The original climbs (including Sonoran Moonfire and One Legged Barstool) were done in 2015. Additional development in 2019-2021 has cleaned up the area significantly and added more climbing options. There is an easy walk off from the top to descend or set up a top rope from.

Near-roadside climbing, morning and afternoon shade (though not mild-day), and majority of moderates have made the Saloon grow in popularity. Please be respectful, keep group sizes small, and use the consolidated trail that accessed the middle of the cliff (not creating side trails from the edges).

Routes Face: Southwest · West

Sun Starts: ~10am

Sun Ends: ~3pm (later in Summer)

WARNING (posted 5/31/21):  I have been informed there are an unusually large amount of bees around the base and top of the cliff that present a real hazard.  Recall that a Tucson climber died on rappel in 2013 from a bee attack, so please take this seriously.  In addition to that plus the summer heat, this crag should be avoided wholesale till it is determined safe.

Update (via KW, from June-July 2021): the bees are still present, but are not an obvious danger. One member of our party was stung once while walking to the top, but the bees made no attempt to swarm. They didn’t mind our continued presence and loud noise level. Caution is still warranted, but we’ve still been enjoying the area without issue.

Getting There Suggest change

Park in the Sanctuary Cove pull out, close to the entrance. Walk out the exit gate and walk south down the dirt road. You'll pass a National Parks Service boundary sign, continue down the trail for 3 minutes while looking out for a wall on the left. A large exposed face can be seen facing the path with two lines of bolts running up. Scramble off the path up to the base of the wall. The top can be reached hiking both left or right of the wall.

15 Total Climbs

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Location: The Saloon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Saloon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
Bolt the Planet
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
Sonoran Moonfire
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Lick My Bolt Hole
Sport, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Cactus Wren
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bolt the Planet
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Sonoran Moonfire
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Lick My Bolt Hole
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Cactus Wren
 19
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Saloon »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Routes Mostly Face: Southwest · West
Sunny Roughly 10am to 3pm during high season
6am
8pm

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