Science Lab* Rock Climbing

The Science Lab is the prominent rockface overhanging the road southwest of the Pit Stop. The rock quality on the large face above the roadcut is excellent. Climbs at the Science Lab start on the large ledge 20 feet above the roadcut known as Hostage Ledge. For the best Science Lab experience, skip the poor quality shot rock at road level and climb the quality rock above starting from Hostage Ledge (see description below for accessing Hostage Ledge).  Science Lab faces east getting full sun in the morning and full shade by 3 PM. The guardrail provides a great seat to watch climbers at Science Lab.

Jack Beard nicknamed Hostage Ledge claiming route developers held him captive not allowing escape from belay duty until routes were finished. Despite the nickname, Hostage Ledge offers a comfortable belay position above the road with great views of Koocanusa.

There are seven climbs established at the Science Lab and room for more development. These are mixed climbs requiring trad gear where natural features offer protection. Bolts were placed to keep routes safe for lead climbers. The climbs here feel exposed due to the initial start at Hostage Ledge and steep hillside all the way to the reservoir.  The climbs are long with two of the routes offering a multipitch experience. Science Lab offers an excellent crag to hone trad climbing skills in a safe, yet exposed location and develop your big wall head.

The routes on the right side of the great roof (Lab Glass and H2O) offer a 2-pitch opportunity from Hostage Ledge. Climb Pitch 1 to the Lectern, a spacious belay ledge offering unparalleled views of Koocanusa and great place to watch the leader send Crack Daddy. The Lectern is equipped with chain anchors for rappelling back to Hostage Ledge.

Some folks may choose (although not recommended if you want the unique climbing experience offered at Science Lab) to lead climbs starting at the road level in a single push to the top of the routes without an intermediate belay at Hostage Ledge. Be sure to add the number of draws needed for the roadcut section. Also, although a path exists across Hostage Ledge leaders should be cautious of knocking rocks on their belayer as they climb to the better rock above.

Gear: These are all mixed climbs following steep features with opportunities for natural protection. Sections lacking gear placements are bolted with leader safety in mind. Gear needs are described for each climb but a standard rack is sufficient with doubles of certain sizes specified in route descriptions.  All the routes take trad gear easily.  

Descending: Chain anchors with quick links are provided at the top of each climb. Sixty meter rope can be used to descend all routes back to Hostage Ledge including the multipitch via mid-point anchors. There are 3 sets of anchors spread across Hostage Ledge at the base of the respective climbs. You can use these anchors to belay and/or rappel to the road. You can reach the road from the Lectern with an 80 meter rope.

Access to Hostage Ledge: Hostage Ledge can be accessed in three ways. Option 1 is an easy walk above the roadcut starting from the Naked Cliffs. Option 2 is to climb the route named Scooter in the Tyler Hawk Guide located on the north end of the Sunburst Area. Scotter is a short (30 foot) 5.6  route equipped with 4 bolts and 8 inches of chain hanging from each bolt allowing individuals to solo up to the top of the roadcut. Option 3 is to climb through the roadcut directly below the Science Lab. Three bolted lines were added to the road cut for direct access below the routes on the Science Lab. A fourth route through the roadcut goes trad. The bolted routes are each protected with 3 bolts each. Climbing on the shot rock is ~5.7.

Location: The Science lab is located just before you reach the 38 Mile marker on the West Side of Koocanusa. Look down the long straight away on the westside road past the Pit Stop and you'll see the Science Lab wall hanging over the road.   There is a pull-out just before the climbs and larger pull-out around the corner.

Parking: The best parking location is in the large pullout at the Sunburst Area around the corner from the Science Lab. The pullout offers incredible views to the west and a comfortable place to swap stories and beverage at the end of the day plus an easy walk down for a swim in the reservoir.