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Elevation: 7,071 ft 2,155 m
GPS: 34.23885, -116.96973
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,428 total · 47/month
Shared By: Howard on Jun 27, 2018 · Updates
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: Road Closure in Effect DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A style change-up from much of Big Bear climbing with road-side crack climbing. Gritty rock with an abundance of abrasive crystals. Sunny exposure with excellent views of the lake and landscapes to the lake's north.

Getting There Suggest change

At the intersection of Ice Box Lane and Big Bear Boulevard near the Big Bear Dam is the Kidd Creek gully. Take this gully up about 100 yards and you'll see it on on your left. Parking is on the north side of the road. 

 The uphill approach is much easier if you start up the paved driveway for 20 ft or so and then go up the steep loose hillside, along a faint trail and staying on the right side of the Kidd Creek gully.

  After about 100 yards up, about even with the Underworld/Toetally Broken formation, cross the gully via easy connecting boulders. 

 Underworld and Toetally Broken Buttress are really one same sprawling formation.  The former is on the side facing the lake, and the latter on the side facing the gully.  The bolted rap anchor atop Purgatory and Downward Spiral is only about 80 ft away across the top from the bolted rap anchor atop Negro Modelo.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Toetally Broken Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Tecate
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tecate
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
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