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Routes in Magnus Pillar

Cotton Headed Ninny Muggins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crocodile's Toothache, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jam Sandwich T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Haired Boy, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magnus Junior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magnus, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Telling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Description

You'll find excellent stone and splitter cracks on this southeast facing chunk of granite. The two original routes used to require a walkoff. Two bolt anchors and mussy hooks now top each climb. All fixed hardware is bomber Fixe stainless steel. A single 70m rope gets you up and down all of these pitches.

Getting There

Park in the small pull out 0.4 miles past Big Tree Campground/ the parking for Gong Show. Walk across the meadow and into the trees towards Rock Creek. Head upstream a short distance to the tree that crosses the creek. Once across the creek, follow cairns that head up and left toward Juniper Wall. Stay right of Juniper Wall and head up towards Magnus Pillar.
Allow 20 minutes.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Magnus Pillar

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Magnus Junior
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
The Magnus
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Magnus Junior
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Magnus
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Magnus Pillar »

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