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Routes in Mariposita

City Girls S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evac Order S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Float Like a Butterfly S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gibbon Ribbon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mariposa Primero S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Messalaneous Fun S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Monarch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nutterfly S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sting Like A Bee S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swallowtail S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
speed hump S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Description

This easy-access crag turned out to be surprisingly good. Every climber who has hiked the Butterfly Trail has seen it and wondered... hmmm... what is that like ? Dennis Cozetti and crew put up a couple of routes. And Joe Shiefman and Joe Kreidel looked at it and passed on it. I looked at it and figured I'd come back after doing the TriTower. Then Eric Rhicard and I came back and thought "yeah". And then Eric went nuts putting up new stuff !

The rock is kind of weird. Lots of loose stuff and hard to predict what will break. Some of it is like very dense mud... TriTower has that too. But it makes for cool hold geometry.

Afternoons are shady. As the sun moves south for the winter the shade should arrive earlier and earlier.

Getting There

Park at the Butterfly Trail parking (on the right just before Raycreation parking). 10 min down the trail puts you by the crag. 5 more min puts you at the base.

The "easy" trail leaves the Butterfly Trail before you can even see the crag. Keep an eye out for a clear area to the left as you are hiking down the Bfly Trail. There are downed trees and a cairn with a clearing beyond the downed trees. At the bottom of the clearing is a large cairn. Go left (west) to get to the bottom of the crag. Go right (east) to get to the top.

If you miss this trail, you will soon get to the old trail, and you can see the top of the crag. From here you can either backtrack to the "easy" trail, or go down to the top of the crag and then figure things out for yourself.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mariposita

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
City Girls
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
Monarch
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Nutterfly
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
Mariposa Primero
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Gibbon Ribbon
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Sting Like A Bee
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Float Like a Butterfly
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
City Girls
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Monarch
 18
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Nutterfly
 13
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mariposa Primero
 13
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Gibbon Ribbon
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Sting Like A Bee
 8
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Float Like a Butterfly
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mariposita »

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Photos

River K Scott
Tucson, AZ
River K Scott   Tucson, AZ
Important directions! Avoid the false trail: Turn off the Butterly trail AFTER you pass the obvious landmark: An enormous stump, about 3-feet in diameter, marks the turnoff to the approach. Walk a few more steps and look left. You can't miss it.

Folks seem to be leaving the Butterfly trail too soon, burning in a steep, wandering trail, and creating lots of erosion.

Once you pass the enormous stump, looks for an obvious path to the left. Follow it steeply down to where a large ponderosa has fallen across the path. Shorties like myself might have to sit-straddle it, but the path below it continues on to the crag. Jun 23, 2018
Tahoe Schrader
Tucson, AZ
Tahoe Schrader   Tucson, AZ
BETTER DIRECTIONS:

There are two 3-foot diameter stumps with fallen trees nearby on the butterfly. Don’t cut left at the first. Walk another 4ish minutes to the SECOND 3-foot diameter stump.

At the second 3-foot diameter stump, you can either immediately cut left to a fallen tree blocking the path or you can walk an extra ten steps past the stump and cut sorta diagonally left to a fallen tree blocking the path. Do the second. Trail will be obvious past this point. Aug 25, 2018
Seth Remer
Tucson AZ
Seth Remer   Tucson AZ
A pretty large black rattlesnake seems to have a home under the boulder near the base of Nutterfly. Keep your eyes open for it. It came within a yard or two of my belay partner who, thankfully, is chill about snakes. According to the internet, black rattlers are not one of the more aggressive species so if you see it, just keep your distance and keep your cool. Otherwise this crag is great, perfect for evening climbs. Sep 10, 2018
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Hike for 10 minutes. The cliff on a corner where the trail curves right. If you go around the curve and look back you will see the top of it. Go back up the trail about 75 feet to the trail down to the cliff. A big log fell and blocks it about 10 feet down the hill. I go to the uphill end and walk the log as I don't like climbing over it. Oct 6, 2018

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