East Gully, Playground Rock, & The Prize Cliff Climbing
|GPS:||38.989, -119.908 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Refuge Jared on Sep 8, 2016|
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DescriptionThe most expedient approach to the main climbing area trail is through the East Gully. As you near the bottom there is one untitled route in this gully on the right side--a burly start (which can be bypassed on higher ground) followed by a juggy, colorful wall with open cold shuts at the top.
Playground Rock is a buttress with a 5.7 and a 5.9 (L to R) starting vertical (but moderate) and continuing up a low angle wall. If you happen to be looking for the easiest route around here, try School Rock, the area to the climber's Right where there is a low angle juggy 5.5.
The Prize Cliff is an impressive wall, slightly overhanging with a tree at its corner and features a classic 11b called "Excalibur."
Getting ThereLook for cairns Left of the trail immediately after the Castle Gates (less than 20 feet). This trail will take you down to the main approach trail at the base of Castle Rock; follow the cairns down through the East Gully. Near the base you will find a juggy untitled route on the right (with a difficult start). Once at the base of the gully you will meet the main climbing area trail.
The routes on Playground Rock begin at the end of the buttress on your right and continue to the climber's Left.
From Playground Rock, continue climber's Left to the Prize Cliff (Excalibur 5.11b), a slightly overhanging, black and gold wall with a tree growing against the arete.
Classic Climbing Routes at East Gully, Playground Rock, & The Prize Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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