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Routes in Ghost Town

4 Star Kansas T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Barael's Blade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Electric Cousin Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Cousin Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Emotional Straightjacket T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Empty Casket T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hands Down T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Loner's Reckoning S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mayor of Ghost Town, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuke the Whales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Viking Funeral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 9,415 ft
GPS: 35.329, -111.621 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,098 total, 136/month
Shared By: Zach Harrison on Sep 1, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Ghost Town is a mini crag tucked away in the folds of the San Francisco Peaks that features crisp cracks and uniquely featured sport climbs. If a day out is more about being out, then what you actually climb, then adventurous souls might enjoy Ghost Town. You will be the only one there. No clowns will shout beta at you. The setting in the Schultz burn area means that the views steal the show. Wild flowers abound in summer, adding to the scenic ambiance. The cliff is at an elevation of 9200 feet and faces SW, so expect lots of sun, cloudy days are ideal. During monsoons, there is no shelter from rains, but the rock dries very quickly. However, the approach is long, the lines are short and the Tuff rock makes me think that the Oak Creek Overlook had a one night stand with Sedona choss. These factors combine to make a scrappy crag that will appeal to those who appreciate beautiful settings, loath crowded crags, and perfect rock isn’t a requirement to enjoying climbing. Enjoy, or not. Whatever.

Getting There

Start by parking at Schultz Pass and bike ~5 miles up the graveled Waterline Road (Trail #146, closed to cars) until you get to the ridge right below the crag, then hike 10 minutes on a maze of game trails, angling left around to the base of the cliff. You will get to see the crag when you are across the drainage from it. It is nice to have a rack on your bike to stash a rope/water/rack on so your pack is lighter. This approach will take over an hour on the way up but only 30 min on the way down. To get to the Loner Wall, keep going left 100 yards along the base of the cliff(shitty hiking) past a craggy buttress to the 2nd buttress. It takes about 15 more minutes from the main area. Since most climbs have gear, a rack of doubles from subtips to hands, small-med nuts, 9 draws will get you up all the routes here, but check each route for specifics. A 50 meter rope is perfect for this place.

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