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Routes in Ellery Ridges

Backbone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Ellery Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Ellery Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Northwest Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Power House Couloir T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Description

The south slope of Lee Vining Canyon has a huge face filled with ridges and aretes running up to the Dana Plateau. Four of these arete-ridges have moderate, but spectacular rock routes (5.6-5.7) that will take you up to the flat summit of Dana Plateau. Eric Gabel says, "The climbing is like menu bouldering the whole way, pick a problem, step up and do it, pick another, repeat...." "The rock," he continues, "is good and amazingly not loose . . . . A short rope, a set of stoppers and some good approach shoes is all that is necessary." The FA teams brought along an 8mm rope, but never broke it out.

During the winter, there is also a long spectacular mixed rock and ice climb that forms up in the gully between North Ellery Ridge and 'The Backbone'. The is known as the Power House Couloir and has only had a few ascents.

Getting There

Continue east out the Ellery Lake Mining Road from the Rhinedollar Dam and access each of the Ellery Ridges from below. The farthest arete to the east requires about a 45-minute approach march, with the others proportionately less. You can descend back down from Dana Plateau through Ellery Bowl past "Speed of Life" and the Golden Rock until you loop back to your original starting point at Ellery Lake.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ellery Ridges

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Backbone
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Backbone 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
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